2017-2018 Colorado Ice Conditions

The snow is starting to fly up high, and ice season is not far away. Time to sharpen up the tools and 'pons.

Let's hope the ice park has a better season - and that we get some decent moisture this fall - instead of everything happening in December.

Looks like ouray is already cold enough for them to make ice in the park and they have started? Amirite? Seems like sept would be too early!?

September would be quite early for the park to open.

Speaking of the park, does anyone have any further insight into how it will run now that the city is operating it?

Ranger just wondering if they are already making ice there not if it's open.

Nick Andrasik wrote:

Speaking of the park, does anyone have any further insight into how it will run now that the city is operating it?

 Interesting, I had heard that was on the table but hadn't heard any news about if anything was decided. 

Shepido wrote:

 Interesting, I had heard that was on the table but hadn't heard any news about if anything was decided. 

There was a city council meeting on September 18th to finalize a lot of things. I asked for the minutes of the meeting to see if any info could be gleaned from it, but no answer yet.

If anybody is especially antsy to get out, and is interested in some sport dry tooling to warm up for the season shoot me a PM. Live in boulder, either Vail Amphitheater or the Bear Lake crag in RMNP could work for me, Wednesday, Saturday or Sunday. I suck at dry tooling and am looking for M5/M6 stuff, but am happy to belay you on harder.

2017-2018 Ice Season has started, Carl Pluim and I climbed Alexanders Chimney Sunday Sept 24th

Lambslide Approach

Pich 2

Pitch 3

Pitch 4

Pitch 4

Pitch 5

Pitch 5

Lots of Snow on Sunday, alot more than we had anticipated.

Pikes Peak Ice is not in yet.  Climbed Total Abandon 30 SEP 17 minimal ice, not enough to get a stubby in.

Went up to North Star Mountain today to see if anything was in. Lots of snow, minimal ice, although there was one climb that was trying to form (North Star maybe?). Seems like it's an avalanche prone area so I wouldn't want to climb there too late in the season. Ended up just doing some snow climbing/dry tooling.

Lots of ice in the Chicago Lakes basin near Mt. Evans. The pics above are near The Road. Some harder lines around too. Was only scouting today so didn't climb, but it looks like a good early season if you're willing to make the hike in.

Update 10/15/17: Climbed The Road yesterday. It was essentially two pitches of ice/mixed worth roping up for and lots of snow climbing in between. Ice was brittle and delaminating in spots but there was enough decent ice to get a few stubby screws in and make for some good mixed climbing. Overall it was a great climb minus the howling winds and spindrift we experienced, though not terribly bad in the couloir proper.

From what I'm seeing on IG it looks like a couple parties have been on Smear of Fear over the weekend. 

Anyone been up to Lincoln falls? Is it in at all?

climbed alexander's yesterday, the smear looked in with the lower section being the thinnest, martha's was not 'in'

Alex Langfield wrote:

Anyone been up to Lincoln falls? Is it in at all?

I drove by Lincoln last week. There wasn't really anything that was forming up yet. 

Carl Pluim and I climbed Fields on Longs Oct 18th 2017

Pitch 1 - Some Ice, mostly snow

Pitch 2 - Better ice than normal

Pitch 3 - Good ice to start, detatched candle leaving the chimney

Alternate Pitch 2 - Looked good, ran out of time, did not climb

Lincoln Falls has ice on it, the middle curtain has not touched down, the upper pillar has touched down on the right, but the left has a long way to go. I couldn't see the Bowling Alley from the road, but I'd imagine that it is in. The upper part of the Alley is in. 

Also, the first pitch of Three Tiers in 10 Mile canyon is in and would take short screws if needed. Above that it's pretty thin so I didn't go up and knock it down. Now, way up high there is a bunch of ice that has formed up in weird places. Could be really interesting climbing up there if you are willing to scramble up there. We got a few inches of snow last night up here so this should help things.

Did the first pitch or so after the couloir on Dreamwever yesterday. No ice. All snow and rock. Still fun.

Hoping for some colder weather soon. Ouray is looking a little dry.