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Routes in Mormon Canyon
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Ambulance Ride T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Backslider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Damn Yellow Rope! C1-2 |
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Devil Isn’t Red, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Directions from a Moroni T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Drinking Kool-Aid T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Duck for Cover T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Earth Angel T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Faith In The Stone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fin - South Ramp, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Full Contact Origami T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Goliath T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Holy Sin T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Hot Hookers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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John Burcham Spire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Kicked out of Heaven T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Latter-Day Sands T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Made In The Shade T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mormon Mission T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Nameless Tower - Jacob's Ladder, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Plural Pleasures T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Rich and Famous Towers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Scrotum Pole T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Spirit Compass T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Starlord T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tim Toula Spire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Top Shelf Spire T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Touched By An Angel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Marhofer/Ellison |
| Page Views: | 3,725 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Mike on Jan 24, 2011 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
A fun route in a beautiful spot, up past Earth Angel in Mormon Canyon. Like it's twin route Ambulance Ride, the first few pitches are not so hot, but the upper pitches are awesome and more make up for it. The first 1-4 pitches can be linked with a 70m rope into one loooong, not-that-great pitch with rope drag. However you get there, the fun now begins, with great climbing and solid rock above. The views of Earth Angel and Brins Mesa are spectacular.
Pitch(es) 1-4: Scramble & climb up and right to a belay at the base of a nice off-width. There are several variations to this pitch(es). I recommend finding the path of least resistance and blasting through it using sparse pro & long runners. However you start, just make sure you belay at the base of the off-width.
Pitch 2(5): Up the OW (5.8 or 5.9) then continue up the corner to a nice belay ledge with bolts.
Pitch 3 (6): continue up the corner corner via a sweet finger crack on great rock(5.10-). Keep climbing past a loose block on a ledge, then thru the large, intimidating looking roof (5.10-) to a belay above. The roof is not nearly as hard as it looks.
Pitch 4 (7): Continue up the corner system via an easy chimney (5.5).
To get down rappel the route with 2 ropes.
Pitch(es) 1-4: Scramble & climb up and right to a belay at the base of a nice off-width. There are several variations to this pitch(es). I recommend finding the path of least resistance and blasting through it using sparse pro & long runners. However you start, just make sure you belay at the base of the off-width.
Pitch 2(5): Up the OW (5.8 or 5.9) then continue up the corner to a nice belay ledge with bolts.
Pitch 3 (6): continue up the corner corner via a sweet finger crack on great rock(5.10-). Keep climbing past a loose block on a ledge, then thru the large, intimidating looking roof (5.10-) to a belay above. The roof is not nearly as hard as it looks.
Pitch 4 (7): Continue up the corner system via an easy chimney (5.5).
To get down rappel the route with 2 ropes.
Location
Located just up-canyon from Earth Angel. Approach as for Earth Angel. About 50 yards before reaching the lowest part of the Earth Angel formation, head up & left, out of the gully, eventually ending up in the next gully left. Bushwhack up this to the base of the alcove, then head left on a long ledge system. The last rappel anchors can be seen from this ledge.
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