Multipitch Trad Harness

Stuck inside today unfortunately...

So I've been using the Black Diamond Aspect for the past two-ish years. Its held up great and I'll probably continue using it for quite a while for different applications or as a loaner for any friend as skinny as I am. But I have a few gripes about it, mainly that it isn't very comfortable for hanging belays or having a double rack on it for a few hours- it starts cutting into my hips. For gyms and trad in the summer heat, it is not breathable at all...

Figured I can start thinking about a harness and I was curious to see what the MP community uses. I would want to avoid a harness with excessive features, like extra gear loops and huge padding like the Big Gun or the Cadillac. The Sitta looks nice, but the weird rear gear loops are... weird... probably a good harness for people who rack on a sling a lot, and especially alpine with a backpack like Petzl intended. Chaos looks nice but not sure how I feel about non-adjustable leg loops in general. Plus all they're all expensive!

Anyone have some experience with a harness they liked/disliked that they can chime in?

Nolan Huther wrote:

Stuck inside today unfortunately...

So I've been using the Black Diamond Aspect for the past two-ish years. Its held up great and I'll probably continue using it for quite a while for different applications or as a loaner for any friend as skinny as I am. But I have a few gripes about it, mainly that it isn't very comfortable for hanging belays or having a double rack on it for a few hours- it starts cutting into my hips. For gyms and trad in the summer heat, it is not breathable at all...

Figured I can start thinking about a harness and I was curious to see what the MP community uses. I would want to avoid a harness with excessive features, like extra gear loops and huge padding like the Big Gun or the Cadillac. The Sitta looks nice, but the weird rear gear loops are... weird... probably a good harness for people who rack on a sling a lot, and especially alpine with a backpack like Petzl intended. Chaos looks nice but not sure how I feel about non-adjustable leg loops in general. Plus all they're all expensive!

Anyone have some experience with a harness they liked/disliked that they can chime in?

I had the Chaos for a year and pretty much exclusively used it for trad climbing.  It is hands down the most uncomfortable harness I've ever used for hanging belays. I could never put a finger on why but I sold it for 30 bucks on here because I hated it so much.  Now I use a DMM harness that cost less than half as much.  It also is quite uncomfortable but at least it has clipper loops. If you're mainly a trad climber I know people just love their Misty Mountain harnesses.

I have the Arcteryx FL-365 and although it is not cheap, I made the switch from the old BD Focus (the fitted leg version of the Aspect).  I like the packability, it comfortably holds a lot of gear (14 oz draws, double rack up #3), and I really like having a back loop like the Aspect to clip things like cord, rap/bail gear, gloves, water bottle, etc.  The harness feels like you are not wearing it.  It's not the most padded for hanging but I've never been uncomfortable at belays (I wouldn't like jug in it or route set) so its not a worry.  It transitions wonderfully from multi-pitch trad to cragging.

I recently got a Metolius trad harness and I love it. Gear loops aren't the biggest but I clip same sized gear to racking biner of corresponding piece to save room when using double rack, tricams, nuts, etc. Love the adjustable rise feature, quality seems top notch, lightweight and packable, good classic look, full strength gear loops! Yet to spend time in true hanging belay...but when setting up anchor and lowering on sport routes, seems about right comfort wise. 

I LOVE my Cadillac. The comfiest harness, especially once I broke it in, but the other misty harnesses are supposed to be awesome as well. People seem to like the sonic alot. The Misty guys will also do some customs for you, I think. 

Kevin Lowe wrote:

I LOVE my Cadillac. The comfiest harness, especially once I broke it in, but the other misty harnesses are supposed to be awesome as well. People seem to like the sonic alot. The Misty guys will also do some customs for you, I think. 

Hmm the Sonic seems like a nice alternative from Misty. I was turned off to the Cadillac because of the 6 gear loops- seems unnecessary unless I'm looking to do some aid. I haven't had a problem fitting a double rack on 4 loops...

I switched from an old BD to a Cadillac based on all the glowing reviews on this forum.  Honestly can't say that it is any more comfortable, but I do like having the 6 gear loops.  Don't always need them, but they are handy at times.  I use a Petzl Sama in the gym and it's the most comfortable harness I've ever used, but the gear loops suck for trad. 

I am on my second Petzl Calidris easily rack doubles from C3 to #4 (I use Nano 22's) on the 2 front loops quick draws  runners etc.. on the back 2 and use the haul loop for belay devices tag line etc..

it pretty comfortable for hanging belays and they have held up pretty well. 

I'm quite happy with my Sitta for trad climbing.  It's weirdly counter intuitive, but such a light, thin harness really is crazy comfy.  I rack exclusively on the harness and have plenty of room.  The divider on the front gear loops are awesome for keeping things organized.

I have a Misty Sonic and I think it's fantastic. Little less bulky than the Cadillac, but I rarely wish it had more padding and I've never really felt the need for the two extra gear loops. I find the four on the Sonic have plenty of space even for 70m pitches in the desert. Plus the folks over at Misty are awesome and supporting good people who make good products is a win-win.

Misty.

I've had very padded harnesses and I've had newer ultra lightweight harnesses and it is kind of shocking how comfortable the newer fancy ultra-thin webbing harnesses are.  The arcteryx harness is so much more comfortable than any of the super padded harnesses.  It's the difference between sitting in an office chair from the 90's that's super padded, and one of those fancy herman miller aeron chairs.  Really well designed, lightweight, actually distributes weight instead of just using padding to hide discomfort. 

Arcteryx harnesses are amazing. After using MM for a few years, I switched to Arcteryx and never looked back.

Don't rack on your harness other than the non-essentials or just draws. Shoulder sling better for that rack of cams, imo.

For me the only drawback of Edelrid Orion is right-side buckle. I would prefer left-side buckle. Also would like to have two belay loops, although this is not an issue at all because it's too easy to fix. Everything else is fine about Orion.

Cadillac all the way

Petzl Sitta.  Ridiculously expensive but worth it to me.  

Well, there's the Misty Mountain Cadillac. But the Cadillac is also very good. Personally, I own a Cadillac and will never buy another harness. Alternatively, I have some friends that really like their Cadillac. 

Speeches Lucas wrote:

Well, there's the Misty Mountain Cadillac. But the Cadillac is also very good. Personally, I own a Cadillac and will never buy another harness. Alternatively, I have some friends that really like their Cadillac. 

So many Cadillacs in this post I thought I was at a GM dealership

Having owned Edelrid, BD, Petzl, and Misty Mountain, I feel confident in saying that MM receives such great reviews based on the fact that they are a smaller manufacturer based in North Carolina, and not necessarily the products themselves.  I always read about their harnesses being so comfortable compared to other brands, but that hasn't been my experience.  What is nice, is that they are based here in the USA and you can call and talk to the people that run the shop, order custom fitment, etc.  I run a small manufacturing business and appreciate those things, and I think that's why they receive so much praise.  

Jason Kim wrote:

Having owned Edelrid, BD, Petzl, and Misty Mountain, I feel confident in saying that MM receives such great reviews based on the fact that they are a smaller manufacturer based in North Carolina, and not necessarily the products themselves.  I always read about their harnesses being so comfortable compared to other brands, but that hasn't been my experience.  What is nice, is that they are based here in the USA and you can call and talk to the people that run the shop, order custom fitment, etc.  I run a small manufacturing business and appreciate those things, and I think that's why they receive so much praise.  

Good to know, I've heard similar comments re: their customer service. Having owned all those other brands, and with MM not being the most comfortable for you, which one was did you find the most comfortable?

I own a Petzl Corax (my first harness so far), and while it's fine for gym and sport, I'm looking for something more comfortable for a full double trad rack, and for long hangs on the wall for photography.