the climbing scene at El Potrero Chico

It seems like it is easy to meet climbing partners there, am I right? I may be going solo in Dec/Jan (maybe Dec 27-Jan 8 or so) and wondering if there are a lot of other solo climbers that tend to show up alone rather than with set climbing partners already? I was in Thailand (Tonsai and Chiang Mai) this past January and had a blast there by myself - ended up meeting a lot of solo climbers which was really fun.

(a climbing friend from the US that I had met in Thailand that I was supposed to meet there got scared off by travel advisories for that part of Mexico.. but I am thinking of still going anyway.)

You should have no issues finding people to climb with down there. If you stay at Posada, hanging out and meeting people in the common kitchen area will be easy. 

The travel advisories I would take with a grain of salt. I think IME they are a bit overinflated, I mean did your friend ever read the travel advisories for Thailand? They seem pretty bad, but I wouldn't let it stop me. All in someone's perception, just like anything, keep your head on a swivel and be smart. 

You will hook up easily.

I've been there the last 2 years, the scene and perceived safety is good at the Potrero and Hidalgo, but there is a long and sordid history of violence in Nuevo Leon, Monterrey and a particular cartel related mass murder incident in 2013 in El Potrero Chico. I think it is naive to think that all is totally safe traveling in the area, but to me traveling to Baltimore, Detroit or parts of LA would be a lot scarier.

Yup, I agree with you there mountainhick. I was a bit freaked about the mariachi band murder before I made my trip down, but I read a bit more into things and found that there was a lot more to the story than the sensationalized media story we all got here in the states. Seemed it was a case of making the same promises to 2 rival cartels or something along those lines, IIRC. Basically, it wasn random't violence, it was someone pissed someone off.

As to travel advisories and stuff -- the local area around EPC (Hidalgo) is generally pretty safe and also welcoming to climbers.  

mountainhick wrote:

You will hook up easily.

I've been there the last 2 years, the scene and perceived safety is good at the Potrero and Hidalgo, but there is a long and sordid history of violence in Nuevo Leon, Monterrey and a particular cartel related mass murder incident in 2013 in El Potrero Chico. I think it is naive to think that all is totally safe traveling in the area, but to me traveling to Baltimore, Detroit or parts of LA would be a lot scarier.

I went down there (but with a girl friend) March 2013 right after the cartel mass murder.  A lot of people canceled their trip, but we still chatted with a lot of people in the kitchen. Easy to find partners, but maybe because there were fewer people there.  We did climb with another group when we got tired of multi-pitch and went cragging.  Lots of people just asking for partners for "today" "tomorrow" etc.

I felt safe -and I'm a 4'10" female, and my friend is a 5'2" female- we even hitchhiked to town on our rest day.

Thanks, all! It sounds like a good place to go as a solo climber.

David, I am pretty new to climbing compared to many - it's only been about 2.5 years and just started leading just over a year ago. I am able to lead 10s and in terms of comfortably though, that would even be low 10s (mental battle still going on with fear of falling), but I am not yet at 11s outdoors... so am wondering if that will make it hard for me to find partners to climb with there. That and my light weight..

I found the grades at Potrero to be a little soft. I feel like when I went down there the first time I was where you were at, and I was able to onsight .11b. But the Mota wall is stacked with great .10's. days of fun climbing there. 

HelenL wrote:

The reason I said high-10s to low-11s is a lot of the longer "goal" multi-pitch climbs come in around that range.  Sure some are easier (e.g. Estrellita), but if you can "rope-gun" the crux pitch or two on one of the classic multi-pitches, then it becomes easier to find a partner than otherwise.  

There are generally people down there solo -- but I personally always plan to go with a partner because I'm not good at finding partners -- I only lead low-to-mid 10s, and tend towards shy.

I'm actually thinking of a trip down there Dec 26 - early January this year, if I could arrange with a partner for the trip.  Maybe we could plan to climb together?

Ill be down there solo the same time you will.  I'd be stoked to climb!

You won't have any troubles just come here and have a good time. I've lived here full-time for 3 years now with no problems.

Helen you are too worried. You'll have no trouble finding partners.

Yeah, I don't know why I feel a bit nervous about it as I was in Thailand and Vietnam by myself earlier this year and met people, and had a great time. :) Most people I met did climb at a higher grade than me (I found that those who go solo tend to be 11s+) but many people were cool to climb any grade as it was all fun.
Interesting to hear the grades feel soft at EPC. I found that to be mostly the case in Asia as well, but have also heard that Ontario rock (where I am from) is a bit challenging. :)

David Gibbs wrote:

I'm actually thinking of a trip down there Dec 26 - early January this year, if I could arrange with a partner for the trip.  Maybe we could plan to climb together?

That would be cool. I am thinking of Dec 27-Jan 8 or thereabouts. How much do you weigh? I am about 105lb and feel comfortable to belay up to about 150-155lb max. That poses a problem with some guy partners though.. 

Don Ferris wrote:

Ill be down there solo the same time you will.  I'd be stoked to climb!

Sounds great.. keep me posted! How much do you weigh?

Helen L wrote:

That would be cool. I am thinking of Dec 27-Jan 8 or thereabouts. How much do you weigh? I am about 105lb and feel comfortable to belay up to about 150-155lb max. That poses a problem with some guy partners though.. 

Yeah, I way more than that... around 195.  So, might not work. :(

Or have to attach you to a weighted pack or something while belaying.  

Can I get yalls opinion on making the trip 3rd week of October? It'd be a quick trip, probably 4-5 days and will be my first time. Read this is the rainy season though. Would I be better off waiting until early November? I'd like to avoid the crowds as well. Any feedback appreciated.

David Gibbs wrote:

Yeah, I way more than that... around 195.  So, might not work. :(

Or have to attach you to a weighted pack or something while belaying.  

Hmm, yeah not the safest belay! I prefer not being anchored when possible so I can be more mobile as I belay. With a weighted pack, it would have to be like 50lb which sounds like a horrible weight to walk to the crag with. :) I once belayed a 200lb friend ONLY because he said he would not fall (I know, I know..) as it was an easy climb (warmup) that was several grades easier than what he normally climbs.. or so we thought! It was a new climb and turned out he was on the wrong climb and it was harder than we thought. At one point around 3 bolts up, he took because was he noticing it being harder than expected. I "took" no problem but then I lifted slowly off the ground even doing that. Our other friend (who was the one usually belaying him) come running to anchor me to her. I then lowered him and she belayed him instead.

Helen L wrote:

Hmm, yeah not the safest belay! I prefer not being anchored when possible so I can be more mobile as I belay. With a weighted pack, it would have to be like 50lb which sounds like a horrible weight to walk to the crag with. :) I once belayed a 200lb friend ONLY because he said he would not fall (I know, I know..) as it was an easy climb (warmup) that was several grades easier than what he normally climbs.. or so we thought! It was a new climb and turned out he was on the wrong climb and it was harder than we thought. At one point around 3 bolts up, he took because was he noticing it being harder than expected. I "took" no problem but then I lifted slowly off the ground even doing that. Our other friend (who was the one usually belaying him) come running to anchor me to her. I then lowered him and she belayed him instead.

Makes sense -- sounds like it won't work for you belaying me.  

I'll just have to let you lead everything. :)

Helen:

You might consider buying and bringing an Edelrid Ohm, it would give you access to a wider array of partners. Bit heavy and pricey, but I have heard good things.

Hi. Posting this here instead of creating my own thread. I will also be in Potrero from Dec. 26-Jan.3 and will be looking for a partner for some of that time. I weight 140-150 lbs. Stoked to cruise up some multi-pitches. I'm planning to camp at El Sendero. See you down there!