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Near Miss on Cathedral Peak

Stagg54 Taggart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 10
Air Alexy wrote:

Why would anyone really care that much if this guy lives or dies? Every one of us is gonna exit at some point, but this jerk doesn't seem to care if he takes any of us with him. I'm not faulting folks for offering him aid. In fact, I'd do the same thing, if asked. But all the sympathy and the "I was just glad he made it out alive" comments have me wondering if anyone out there is feeling the same way I am? 

In addition to being extremely dangerous to our fellow climbers, this guy is a total asshole and an egomaniacal attention seeker. If he doesn't stop, he's going to hurt someone. There are two ways he could stop: 

    (1) He wises up, stops doing this, and goes on to live a happy and productive life. 

    (2) He falls and dies.

Does anyone really believe that option 1 will happen?

Am I a monster, or does anyone else feel this way?

Honestly my first gut reaction was "Why the hell didn't someone give him a quick kick and send him on his way.  He's obviously suicidal - better to take him out before he takes someone with him"  

Then the rational part of my brain said "No that's too mean."

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 342
Addem Bursh wrote:

A look into the mind of a lunatic. 

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665
vincent L. wrote:

Can you give evidence of one closure or increased regulation caused by a soloist death?

Springfield Gorge Ohio, my childhood playground as a climber, was closed after an unroped individual fell from the top of the cliff and died.  He was setting topropes, or so it is thought.
Regardless, he was at the top edge of a cliff with no rope on.

Many states closed climbing areas or passed laws against climbing (Indiana, IE) for fear of injury or lawsuit, and the closure or fear of closure of private land to recreational use became an issue to the point where many states passed 'recreational user statutes.'

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

PS - reminds me... kickapoo falls, IN, Turkey Run State Park, IN... I think both closed due to 'liabilities' for injury.
And what the hack, you can even be hiking in and dislodge a rock that later falls on or near a tourist and get a whole area like Boulder Falls closed.

amy a · · Reno, NV · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 0

As the party Rafael mentioned who was doing the tmc linkup, it was kind of a shitshow in the backcountry. I realize by being out there my partner and I contributed to the crowds, but there were a lot of uneducated parties who put others in danger. I think the biggest challenge with the "soloist" was his lack of interest in help or in retreating. He endangered a lot of people up there. I ran into him at the last pitch and witnessed Rafael tossing him yet more rope to assist him. I thought it wisest to steer clear, but it became impossible at the top as he and his "haulbag" camped out between the end of the route and the downclimb. My advice is if you see him, get on another route or bail. You cannot help someone who won't help himself.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610

Add Gibraltar Rock in WI to the closed list due to death...but with a twist, it wasn't a climber, it was a drunken and literally suicidal fool, through an odd twist of logic climbing got banned. I don't remember the whole story but I'm sure there's a person or two on here that can elaborate or correct me. In other words, we aren't safe from regulation even if it's not climbers causing the problem.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610

The best bet, in my opinion, for this situation is to document what this guy is doing and distance as much as possible what he is doing from what the rest of us actually climbing are doing.

Jordan Whitley · · NC · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 240

 I think we all owe it to each other to assist another when someone needs help in the mountains, you never know when it could be you or your family that needs help some day. If someone is obviously struggling and in trouble, you should offer assistance. There are two situations, in my opinion, when you can't/shouldn't help someone...

1. If helping or trying to rescue another is going to put yourself at unnecessary risk, retreat and call for backup or come up with a different plan. You're no good if you're dead too.

2. If you have offered help and the person is flat out refusing help and doesn't want it (like this guy). You can't help someone who won't help themselves. You've done what you can, move on or head down if you don't want to be around.

I think you did pretty much everything right though, did what you could. Not much one can do when someone flat out refuses to be helped. 

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

Been lurking this thread for a while and loving it, I may have missed it but was the guy wearing gloves when he was climbing? I can see he has before just wondering if he decided to take the gloves off for a 5.7 being what seems to be the hardest thing he has tried.

rafael · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 35
that guy named seb wrote:

Been lurking this thread for a while and loving it, I may have missed it but was the guy wearing gloves when he was climbing? I can see he has before just wondering if he decided to take the gloves off for a 5.7 being what seems to be the hardest thing he has tried.

he had them on the whole time I saw him

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

Interesting - further poking around reveals this guy is an unapologetic racist on top of all the rest of it...who would have thunk it?

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
rafael wrote:

he had them on the whole time I saw him

I guess this guy falls into this category of people.

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=dumb%20idiot

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

Just a thought, but imagine - you do something like this on a route.
Now how many routes in teh country could it be that 1/2 doz Mt Proj people see you on that very day?
Says something about the traffic up there, eh?

Rob Gordon · · Hollywood, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 115

Seb trying to sneak into the comments like we don't remember HIS sketchy GoPro FS video. 

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Rob Gordon wrote:

Seb trying to sneak into the comments like we don't remember HIS sketchy GoPro FS video. 

Go pros make everything look sketch my solo was solid, especially compared to some of my higher end solos.

Rob Gordon · · Hollywood, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 115

We can agree on one thing... I've never seen a free soloist that used a GoPro not look sketch. 

Just giving you a hard time. Stay safe. 

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Rob Gordon wrote:

We can agree on one thing... I've never seen a free soloist that used a GoPro not look sketch. 

Just giving you a hard time. Stay safe. 

I think what's really terrifying about the guys video is that it's like constant mistakes and misreading the rock, every movement looks panicked almost involuntary, there's no cruising up the easy parts and misreading the crux its always a struggle all the time. Add that with the shakey go pro that you get makes his video legitimately hard to watch.

Stagg54 Taggart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 10
that guy named seb wrote:

I think what's really terrifying about the guys video is that it's like constant mistakes and misreading the rock, every movement looks panicked almost involuntary, there's no cruising up the easy parts and misreading the crux its always a struggle all the time. Add that with the shakey go pro that you get makes his video legitimately hard to watch.

Kinda like watching a train wreck...  You know there is going to be carnage, you're just not sure exactly when...

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911

 I nominate Burchy

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Dogpile!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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