Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in The Convent
|
Buddha's Delight T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
Choir Boyz T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Girls Gone Wild T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Middle Way, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Odyssey of Idiocy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1+ PG13 |
|
|
Renate Goes to Eleven T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Value of Audacity, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
West Face Dihedral T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Whore House T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Andrew Wilder and Scott McLeod in 2009 |
| Page Views: | 1,750 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Wade Plafcan on Nov 22, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This route is Awesome! As of now I do no know the FA, FFA or year it was established so let me know if you have more information. We could not find information online or in any books about this climb.
We climbed this route twice fall of 2016. All anchors are bolted well with good enough tat. This line is beautiful corner and is immediately above you when you hike up to the convent. We linked pitches and did it in 3. 1 and 2 link well, the rest have decent drag.
Pitch 1: 5.12-, Crux off the deck. Super thin corner for 20 feet leads to a short easy chimney. The move getting out of the chimney roof was not freed but felt pretty hard and awkward. finish on off fingers and hands
Pitch 2: 5.10+, Great pitch, tight hands through an overhang leads up the corner. The corner is variable but widens to #5 cam. We found 2 #4s and 1#5 helpful on this pitch. Hand stack and jam up this beautiful pitch!
Pitch 3: 5.11+, The corner thins down up to fingers and leads to a large roof that seams out. My last piece was blue metolious. Pull a cool move around the roof. Then exposed face traverse left to a hand crack and mantle up to base of sport pitch. I placed a very small piece temporarily to protect mantle at end of this pitch. This pitch is wild and exposed!
Pitch 4: Sport pitch, 5.11c, Clip 4 bolts and pull technical and balancy moves. Great movement! lead up and right on easy terrain. This is where it gets tower weird. Ill describe the way we went: Mantle and traverse 30 feet left on flat ground. You will see a corner with 1 more bolts. Climb broken rock up corner to a sloping ledge and calcite .3 cam corner. climb this 10 foot corner to huge ledge, walk right to anchor on ledge.
Pitch 5: Easy climbing, multiple options, some loose rock. Know that the final anchor is directly above you on a ledge. To get there go either left of right. Left was easy looking #5 OW, however we went right. Traverse right 30 feet and up easy calcite crack corner. Mantle up to huge ledge and go left a bit. Climb easy broken rock face style up to another ledge. Head left and go up short splitter crack for 15 more feet. The final anchor is to your left.
This climb was a great tower adventure! Mostly clean, some loose rock on top makes for a full tower experience! Did not look heavily trafficked but was only slightly sandy. Have Fun!
We climbed this route twice fall of 2016. All anchors are bolted well with good enough tat. This line is beautiful corner and is immediately above you when you hike up to the convent. We linked pitches and did it in 3. 1 and 2 link well, the rest have decent drag.
Pitch 1: 5.12-, Crux off the deck. Super thin corner for 20 feet leads to a short easy chimney. The move getting out of the chimney roof was not freed but felt pretty hard and awkward. finish on off fingers and hands
Pitch 2: 5.10+, Great pitch, tight hands through an overhang leads up the corner. The corner is variable but widens to #5 cam. We found 2 #4s and 1#5 helpful on this pitch. Hand stack and jam up this beautiful pitch!
Pitch 3: 5.11+, The corner thins down up to fingers and leads to a large roof that seams out. My last piece was blue metolious. Pull a cool move around the roof. Then exposed face traverse left to a hand crack and mantle up to base of sport pitch. I placed a very small piece temporarily to protect mantle at end of this pitch. This pitch is wild and exposed!
Pitch 4: Sport pitch, 5.11c, Clip 4 bolts and pull technical and balancy moves. Great movement! lead up and right on easy terrain. This is where it gets tower weird. Ill describe the way we went: Mantle and traverse 30 feet left on flat ground. You will see a corner with 1 more bolts. Climb broken rock up corner to a sloping ledge and calcite .3 cam corner. climb this 10 foot corner to huge ledge, walk right to anchor on ledge.
Pitch 5: Easy climbing, multiple options, some loose rock. Know that the final anchor is directly above you on a ledge. To get there go either left of right. Left was easy looking #5 OW, however we went right. Traverse right 30 feet and up easy calcite crack corner. Mantle up to huge ledge and go left a bit. Climb easy broken rock face style up to another ledge. Head left and go up short splitter crack for 15 more feet. The final anchor is to your left.
This climb was a great tower adventure! Mostly clean, some loose rock on top makes for a full tower experience! Did not look heavily trafficked but was only slightly sandy. Have Fun!
3 Comments