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RAPPING into 3rd pillar of Dana!?

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60
Jon Hartmann wrote:

Climbing Symon didn't mention that the guys had been sleeping on the top so that when everyone else was hiking in they saw the guys on the top waking up and scrambling to rap in before anyone else could get down the gully. That's why it's totally messed up to me. Sleeping at the route and they still couldn't get their shit together enough to not cause a cluster fuck before everyone else walked in from their cars. 

Interesting.  Dana Plateau would be a great place to spend the night.  Really cool spot.  However, if they humped overnight and climbing gear all the way up there, wouldn't they have the time and/or energy to check out, let alone descend the approach gully?  I can't see any rationale basis for deciding that rapping in would be easier.  Like I mentioned upthread, it really makes me question the skill and (lack of good) judgment of the group.  

David Deville · · Fayetteville, AR · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 90

Maybe someone SHOULD have grabbed a couple of booty pieces. At least they'd think twice about doing the same thing again; that sounds completely ridiculous. 

Adam Linamen · · Irvine, CA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 82

I was there too and bailed b/c too many people and those guys looked like they were gonna slow everybody down

Natalie N · · Bishop, CA · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 39

Thanks Colby Wangler and Climbin Symon for posting an update! I was the 4th party that day (not counting the 5-person group) and we decided to hike back out after talking with the group at the top and finding out that at least one of the members had only been climbing for a matter of months. It is quite appalling that they couldn't get their stuff together even after having camped overnight near the route.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

I feel for you newer climbers.  Used to be you hiked all that way and you'd be more or less guaranteed to have the place to yourself.  We did when I did it (probably 25 yrs. ago--ugh, I'm old). Now five parties on that route?!  I enjoy the camaraderie of having another party on a route, but that just sounds like LA at rush hour.  

mattb19 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 250

Super crappy of those guys for sure since it would slow everything down. Too bad you all bailed you could have done the 10c as mentioned before. I have been on there a number of times with multiple parties all over the place and as soon as I went right on the 10c I lost everyone. When on a super popular route it's best to know the options.

rafael · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 35

I dont understand why anyone would take someone learning to climb outdoors on an alpine route over 5.6... let alone a 5.10... Then again a ranger told me that they see people on the summit of whitney under a building thunderhead, with the selfie stick out as electricity is making buzzing sounds, then saying stuff like "whats that buzzing sound?" selfie stick still midair... and somehow they arent dead.

Pain in the butt that these idiots are clogging up alpine climbs though

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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