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> Central-W Casca…
> Skykomish Valley
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> Lookout Point Area
> Lookout Point
> (b) Central Area
A Ship Called Black Rock
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.2 from 45
votes
Routes in (b) Central Area
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A Group of Mysteries of Frenchwoman T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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A Hatch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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A Ship Called Black Rock T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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An Act of Strange Boar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Baby Tapir T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Below Lissen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Birds on the Balcony (short) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Cattalk T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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He is Truly a Great Airplane (Hitaga) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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House of the 7th Bobcat T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Law & Order (p2) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Law and Order T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lookout Point Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lookout Point Direct (p4) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Money T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Rice Krispies T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shirui Leopard T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sisara* S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Why Here, Tiger Lily? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Derek Pearson, Jon Nelson, July 10, 2012 |
| Page Views: | 4,426 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | Jon Nelson on Jul 11, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Description
This is the third pitch of An act of strange boar, a group of mysteries of frenchwoman, a ship called black rock, and a hatch. (But it also makes a great alternative 2nd pitch to Law and Order.)
Start in the short hand/layback crack directly above the anchor at the top of p1 of Law and Order, a little right of the top of a group of mysteries of frenchwoman. Move up to the corner (~5.9). Climb corner, using both the corner crack and the crack/edge on the right wall. One 5.10 move is getting past the bulge, another 5.10 section is just above the bulge. After that, it is 5.9 to the chained anchor.
There is an upper chained anchor that is better if you are continuing up Lookout Point. For rapping off or TRing, it may be better to use the lower chained anchor as the upper one may lead to a jammed rope.
Start in the short hand/layback crack directly above the anchor at the top of p1 of Law and Order, a little right of the top of a group of mysteries of frenchwoman. Move up to the corner (~5.9). Climb corner, using both the corner crack and the crack/edge on the right wall. One 5.10 move is getting past the bulge, another 5.10 section is just above the bulge. After that, it is 5.9 to the chained anchor.
There is an upper chained anchor that is better if you are continuing up Lookout Point. For rapping off or TRing, it may be better to use the lower chained anchor as the upper one may lead to a jammed rope.
Protection
For the bottom section, use a few hand-to-wide-hand sized cams and finger-sized nuts.
For the lower 2/3 of the corner, use small brass or wired nuts. The number 3-5 RP or largest 3 brass nuts are really useful as are thin-finger-sized nuts.
For the top 1/3, bring along a few finger-sized cams.
For the lower 2/3 of the corner, use small brass or wired nuts. The number 3-5 RP or largest 3 brass nuts are really useful as are thin-finger-sized nuts.
For the top 1/3, bring along a few finger-sized cams.
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