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W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 1. First Buttress
Eye of Mordor
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3.6 from 69
votes
Routes in 1. First Buttress
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Andoullie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Being Dani Andrada S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ben Dunne T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Boomerang S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Corner Pocket S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Creature S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cross-Eyed and Blind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Eye of Mordor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Floaters S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lady Punk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lamda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pinocchio S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Push S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sausage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Superman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Toymaker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Typical Situation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Vignette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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West Virginia Two-Step S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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You, Watch the Clocks! S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Joel Brady |
| Page Views: | 8,828 total · 58/month |
| Shared By: | camhead on Nov 7, 2011 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
- **NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.
Description
Like other routes at First Buttress, this has a series of boulder problems, separated by good rests, and ends in a dihedral.
I gave this a 13a, since that is the traditional grade, but I think that most will find it a bit soft. It is definitely the softest 13 at First Buttress. Originally it was 13b, but the upper dihedral got a drilled pocket, making the redpoint crux significantly easier. If you want the original flavor of the route, go directly from the glued jug to the fingerlock in the corner, skipping the pocket.
After the crux, move left from the corner under a roof, eventually going over it on jugs.
I gave this a 13a, since that is the traditional grade, but I think that most will find it a bit soft. It is definitely the softest 13 at First Buttress. Originally it was 13b, but the upper dihedral got a drilled pocket, making the redpoint crux significantly easier. If you want the original flavor of the route, go directly from the glued jug to the fingerlock in the corner, skipping the pocket.
After the crux, move left from the corner under a roof, eventually going over it on jugs.
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