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Rich Farnham
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Sep 15, 2017
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Nederland, CO
· Joined Aug 2002
· Points: 297
Great info, thanks! I'll check out that shop. Could be dangerous knowing about that place!
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Gregger Man
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Sep 15, 2017
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Broomfield, CO
· Joined Aug 2004
· Points: 1,764
You will need to spend time searching - the place laid out like a dingy, overstuffed antique shop: Rusty bucket with ~500 rasps here, pile of 400 files there. If you love tools it's a neat place because there are things there from companies that went out of business decades ago. Lots of junk, too, tho.
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randy88fj62
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Sep 15, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2010
· Points: 291
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Gregger Man
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Sep 15, 2017
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Broomfield, CO
· Joined Aug 2004
· Points: 1,764
The cost of bolt replacement tools is a very important part of the rusty anchor problem. Plenty of crags don't have a local climbing organization with money to throw at crag overhauls. We are spoiled here on the Front Range. The Access Fund (probably) can't shoulder the cost of equipping hundreds of volunteers with Hurleys or hydraulic pullers. The original goal of the Doodad tool was to make a tool as inexpensively as possible that just about anyone could make. The more bolts you pull, the more you will desire high-quality (high-dollar) tooling, but it's nice to have cheap entry-level pulling tools that will get volunteers interested and involved.
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randy88fj62
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Sep 15, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2010
· Points: 291
I'm pretty sure a complete puller kit can be made in China pretty cheap and sold at a profit through the ASCA. All the small hardware adds up and buying in bulk would reduce the cost considerably. But someone would have to want to head the project...
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randy88fj62
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Sep 15, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2010
· Points: 291
3/8-16 rod reduced to 5/16-18 to pull cones. Nice to have friends who work on a lathe :D
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Rich Farnham
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Sep 15, 2017
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Nederland, CO
· Joined Aug 2002
· Points: 297
Thanks Randy! That looks like a good way to not spend a bunch of money on sizes I don't need, and end up with quality tools.
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randy88fj62
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Sep 18, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2010
· Points: 291
Gregger, How long should I trim my spacer tube to be if I am copying your setup and using the same draw studs? Don't want to mess up the length.
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Gregger Man
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Sep 19, 2017
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Broomfield, CO
· Joined Aug 2004
· Points: 1,764
7.5" works. The ideal length depends on how often you need to extract long 5-piece bolts. Most wedge bolts are pretty short and you don't need more than ~3" of throw + the length of the square nut and coupling nut. I shortened my spinner tool coupling nut to omit the internal set screw:
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randy88fj62
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Sep 19, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2010
· Points: 291
A big thanks to Gregger for his enduring patience. I know I asked far too many questions and he gladly took the time to assist. I didn't have a hammer drill this evening so I hand drilled a 3/8 hole to place a 3/8 powers bolt to practice in preparation for my weekend endeavors. The hole was ovaled due to my poor drilling technique so I assume it made it easier to pull. Didn't need to use the 3/8-16 spiral tap. Removed the bolt and the top sleeve came out with it. Then the bottom sleeve and plastic spacer came out with a pick tool. The cone required a 5/16-18 thread. I fabricated a stud after Gregger's design where the other end was 3/8-16 to screw into my coupler nut. The coupler nut screws into the puller. I stuck with 1/2-13 threads rather than the 1/2-20 Gregger recommended. The availability of 1/2-13 hardware is a lot better than the 1/2-20. I was also able to have my ballscrew turned on a lathe and threaded however I wanted. If I didn't have acccess to a lathe I believe I would have went with Gregger's 1/2-20 since it is easier to tap the ballscrew by hand that way. I drilled a hole in the coupler nut. I may attach a keeper cord through it. Not sure yet.
Picture of the puller below. The ballscrew is per Gregger's eBay find with a 304 stainless 1" square tube over it. I found a wrench on eBay for $10 and thought it would be great for turning the ballscrew. When it arrived I realized why Gregger built his own handle. It was massive and extremely heavy. Need to work on that. My Parts List and cost. It can be done cheaper. Part numbers are for McMaster unless specified differently. Ballscrew SFU1605 300mm eBay 19.55 Ø5/8 Oil Embedded Thrust Bearing 3750K12 2.67 316 Stainless Steel Ø1/2-13 Square Nut 92891A400 2.63 Hex Coupler Adapter 3/8-16 to 1/2-13 98434A410 4.53 Hex Coupler Adapter 3/8-16 to 5/16-18 98434A310 3.82 316 SS Threaded Rod 3/8-16, 5" long (draw stud for 1/2 cone) 90575A292 1.75 316 SS Threaded Rod 5/16-18, 5" long (draw stud for 3/8 cone) 9057A274 1.55 18-8 SS Slotted Flat Head Screw 1/4-20, .875 pk of 25 (holds square tube on ballscrew) 91781A541 4.72 3/8-16 Spiral Closed Hole Tap Cobalt Vanadium (tapping 3/8 sleeved bolts) 27055A46 22.7 Eklind 51607 Standard Grip T Handle Hex Key 7/64x6" (modified and used as pick to remove loose sleeves) amazon 5.2 304 SS square tubing 1"x1". .065" thk wall, 12" long (main spacer over ballscrew) amazon 11.41 10 pack of rare earth magnets Ø1/4 x 1" long ebay 7.99 Uxcell 1/2-20 male to SDSplus shank chuck adapter (spinner) amazon 4.86 SDS Plus socket driver drill bit adapters 1/2, 3/8, 1/4 amazon 6.28 99.66 TOTAL
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Rich Farnham
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Sep 20, 2017
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Nederland, CO
· Joined Aug 2002
· Points: 297
Randy, Thanks for the parts list! I've been starting to put one together, but this will help a lot. I'm curious why you sprung for SS for things like the square tubing and the draw studs. Seems expensive for something that will get damaged over time and need to be replaced. Is the SS stronger, and therefore less likely to get damaged?
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randy88fj62
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Sep 20, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2010
· Points: 291
I should have mentioned that my main bolt pulling will be done canyoneering. While I have some other side climbing projects to fix, the one happening this weekend that spurred this build is wet. My goal was to prevent rust as much as possible. I am not going to dunk it in the water if I can avoid it but you never know if the dry bag leaks, etc.
The downside to using stainless is that it is not as strong as grade 8 hardware so the longevity of the parts I bought on McMaster may be less. We shall see what abuse these parts have to take with the constant on and off of threading. Galling may occur.
For the items I purchased at McMaster, you can simply buy the plated steel or grade 8 substitute.
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randy88fj62
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Sep 20, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2010
· Points: 291
I had a fancy piece of Hastelloy plate sitting around so I fabricated a wrench for the puller that would be lighter than the silly 40mm wrench I got off eBay. Spliced some dyneema braided cord for tethers and I should be ready for the weekend. Not pretty but it should work for the short term. A laser cut piece of titanium would be nice for the wrench in the future. :D The spacer got its own keeper cord as well. If wrapped correctly and clipped to the hanger on the ballscrew it should keep the spacer from falling down while in storage. It's also a nice secondary tether when working on a bolt.
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Dan Merrick
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Sep 22, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2014
· Points: 30
I am in Morgan Hill and if you want to work on a ball screw puller, I can help. I have a rudametary machine and wood shop crammed into the various corners of my garage. You have to buy your own parts. I only check this site once a month or so so message or email me.
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randy88fj62
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Sep 25, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2010
· Points: 291
Didn't have the tools to pull powers sleeve bolts this weekend but I will be ready next time. Was able to replace three wedge bolts on a head wall. A canyoneering route called Stevenson creek was in need of attention. One cone pulled a bit of granite at the end
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Gregger Man
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Sep 26, 2017
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Broomfield, CO
· Joined Aug 2004
· Points: 1,764
The rock blow-out might have been less if you could get the nut and hanger off. The footprint of the hanger is tighter than the spacer tube on the north edge, and the spacer wasn't touching the rock there while sitting on the hanger. I assume rust/paint/LocTite made it impossible to unscrew. If it starts fighting back as it gets near to the lip of the hole, go back to spinning it a few more times. Good work.
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randy88fj62
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Sep 26, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2010
· Points: 291
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randy88fj62
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Sep 26, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2010
· Points: 291
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Gregger Man
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Sep 26, 2017
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Broomfield, CO
· Joined Aug 2004
· Points: 1,764
There is no reason why it would not work, but a couple reasons why I would not choose it. - weight: that's a lot more steel for the ball screw, the bigger spacer, the bigger thrust bearings, the bigger wrench
- machining: possibly a moot point, but you'll need to grind off more
- overkill: you shouldn't need to pull much more than 1000 lbs to replace a bolt. The Greenlee punch driver can pull ~14,000 lbs, but it's heavy, expensive, and has a short 1" travel. 90% efficiency as opposed to 25% efficiency tells me that the tool isn't going to wear out. In fact, a 12mm ball screw might work even better and save another 1/4 lb...
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Dan Merrick
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Sep 30, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2014
· Points: 30
I don't think I've ever posted this here but I have elsewhere. When I need a really good practice rock for the garage, I go the local monument company. Where they make headstones and memorial benches things like that. They have really nice granite and marble (limestone). The one I go to has a boneyard and they let me have whatever I want for free. Any town of moderate size probably has such a place. Here is the piece I picked up not long ago.
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