The route we took up the N Arete

All Locations > California > High Sierra > 02 - The Sawtoo… > Matterhorn Peak > N Arete (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

The route we took up the N Arete

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The start was a little hard to find for us—we ended up on a ledge that was off-route, and had to down solo some scary/loose sections. This is the start for anyone having trouble finding the first pitch.

Route topo

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3.4 from 5 votes

Ryan Courreges

Jun 21, 2017

“The route we took up the N Arete”

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Hope this photo shows how much exposure you get if you traverse to the arete on the final pitch. 5.7 climbing doesn't get much better than this, do it!

just before the final 3rd class to the summit

Peter Pribik leading the awesome 5.7 finish pitch on Matterhorn's North Arete

Owen shredding down from the East Couloir (green) after cimbing the north Arete (red) on a winter climb/ski link up. February 2016

The start was a little hard to find for us—we ended up on a ledge that was off-route, and had to down solo some scary/loose sections. This is the start for anyone having trouble finding the first pitch.

The route we took up the N Arete

Route topo

Leaving the safety of the crack and getting out on the Arete!

Ridge traverse to the summit. Start at the bottom left corner and you can follow the rope to Tully, perched with a yellow backpack in the shaded corner towards the top. Just on the other side is a walk to the summit.

Corner pitch near the top of the climb.

Zee same photo of zee same corner near zee top. The little chimney thing right after this was probably the crux...or at least the most awkward part of the climbing

top of what I think is the 4th pitch in the topo. Right before crossing back over the arete. We found a shiny 2 bolt anchor with rap rings here

Owen finishing up the first pitch

somewhere around the 3rd pitch

Entering the 5.7 crack on pitch #4. The route finding can be a little confusing around here. Just pick your own route straight up the face until you hit the large ledge above.

The alternate finish, where you actually climb the arete. The climbing seems improbable but features appear as you need them and it's still 5.7-ish

Coming around the arete with some exposure on the 5th pitch!

Crossing the couloir over to the start of the North Arete, circa 1985

Looking down from near the summit

First pitch - we encountered a stuck cam here, so we may well have been on route :)

Me leading final pitch up 5.7 corner. Pic by Justin Marion

Peter Pribik on the summit of Matterhorn Peak, with the endless ridge of the Dragtooth seen in the background. This linkup makes for a long day!

Start of first pitch.

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