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Routes in 5. Lower Patina Wall
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Black Tourmaline T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cheetos Direct T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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For Sure and For Certain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Patina T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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PowerHead T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Tuolumne Two Step T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Jamie Cunningham and Jon Sykes (Summer 2006) |
| Page Views: | 2,374 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Chris W on Sep 6, 2017 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
A wonderful climb on rock with a unique patina, and some fun crack climbing at the grade (and a lot of fun face climbing). Pitch 1 and 3 are very fun, but P2 is a little bit dirty, but worth it for pitch 3. This route was found in Jon Sykes book The Notches (which I recommend you get because it has a lot more detail, pictures and adventures in it), and I think it is a fun route which needs a little bit of love to clean it up and make it classic.
P1 (5.7+): Climb up "past 2 right-facing flakes, then past a bolt", go up and to your left into an alcove with a tree (it wouldn't be New England without some tree action), climb out of the alcove and follow a crack with some beautiful patina up and to the right, face climb to a "right-facing corner" and finish at a 2-bolt belay. Spectacular, has a little bit of a Red Rocks, NV feel to it.
P2 (5.6 PG-13?): [According to Rob Albert P2 and P3 are inaccessible] From the P1 belay go up and left through the trees to get you to a slab. Go up the run out slab and traverse left at a logical point and climb up to a 2 bolt-anchor. This pitch is a bit a bit dirty, and a little bit run out.
P3 (5.7): Climb up the to the arching corner system, clipping a bolt (spooky). Continue up the slab past 3 more bolts to a golden left-facing dihedral (if the corner crack were a little cleaner this would be as good as P1).
Belay at a 2-bolt anchor.
Descent: Rap with 2 60m ropes to the base of Russian Arena OR according to Sykes "Rappel with one 60-meter rope down into the Russian Arena in 2 rappels"
P1 (5.7+): Climb up "past 2 right-facing flakes, then past a bolt", go up and to your left into an alcove with a tree (it wouldn't be New England without some tree action), climb out of the alcove and follow a crack with some beautiful patina up and to the right, face climb to a "right-facing corner" and finish at a 2-bolt belay. Spectacular, has a little bit of a Red Rocks, NV feel to it.
P2 (5.6 PG-13?): [According to Rob Albert P2 and P3 are inaccessible] From the P1 belay go up and left through the trees to get you to a slab. Go up the run out slab and traverse left at a logical point and climb up to a 2 bolt-anchor. This pitch is a bit a bit dirty, and a little bit run out.
P3 (5.7): Climb up the to the arching corner system, clipping a bolt (spooky). Continue up the slab past 3 more bolts to a golden left-facing dihedral (if the corner crack were a little cleaner this would be as good as P1).
Belay at a 2-bolt anchor.
Descent: Rap with 2 60m ropes to the base of Russian Arena OR according to Sykes "Rappel with one 60-meter rope down into the Russian Arena in 2 rappels"
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