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Anybody had bad rubber on a recent resole?

Original Post
D. Evans · · Tustin, California · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 215

I just got my most worn out pair of shoes resoled by a resoler with a great reputation. I love these shoes and was so psyched to give them a new life. They showed up on my doorstep 5 minutes before leaving for the gym on Thurs., SCORE! Yes, it was a beautiful resole job, they looked perfect.  HOWEVER,  the holds seemed a bit slippery (actually skated off a couple, almost falling), it had to be the holds since C4 never feels slippery. 

Then, went to The Pinnacles (Big Bear) yesterday. A totally perfect day, cool and only one other party within miles. I got on the opening moves of a route with some thin friction and the shoes skated again, WTF? I asked my girlfriend to toss up one of my other shoes and I tried again with one of each shoe for a side by side test. Yes, my worst nightmare was confirmed, the rubber SUCKED! It couldn't be C4, or at least was from a bad batch.

This happened once to me before, about 30 or so years ago with a Fire resole, and it was confirmed later, it was a bad batch of rubber.

I can't climb with this crap, it has rendered the shoes useless.

Has this happened to anyone else recently?

I am not looking forward to calling them up and asking "what is the deal, you guys?"

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

What are you looking to get out of this post? Action? Venting? A lynch mob? Lynch mobs are pretty popular in 2017

Maynard · · Lisbon, ct · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 1

Lynch mobs are so hot right now!!

Jason Halladay · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 15,158

I've never had "bad rubber" on a resole. I do note that, like a new shoe out of the box, the sensitivity after a resole is much less and it takes me a while to break them in (wear the rubber down a bit to regain the sensitivity) and they feel sloppy/less precise for a while. That being the case I climb in the gym and/or TR outside a good bit with new/resoled shoes until the good feeling returns. 

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

I've noticed new rubber seems slipperier until it gets roughed up a bit from use.

Parker Wrozek · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 86

So you tested a fresh resole vs a well broke in shoe? I find it takes a few session to "break in" the rubber on new shoes or resoles. Two (ish) sessions would not have me freaking out yet. 

D. Evans · · Tustin, California · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 215

Lynch mob? You guys are funny.

walmongr · · Gilbert AZ · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 130

I just had a pair of TC pros resoled with C4. I have always liked my 5.10 shoes with C4 so figured i would like a pair of TC pros with it.... NOPE! rubber seamed soft and slippery pretty much rendered them useless for micro edging...Will use them for long moderate stuff as they are broke in and conformable and get a new pair with original rubber for harder thin stuff.. Not sure if its bad rubber or just softer then xs edge 

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
walmongr wrote:

Not sure if its bad rubber or just softer then xs edge 

I'm impressed with how much firmer XS Edge is than C4 and XS Grip.  I'm curious if the latter firm up at cooler temps.

D. Evans · · Tustin, California · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 215

PS. The intent of my post was just to see if there was a local epidemic of bad rubber.

Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860

Wire brush, sandpaper, or even a light file.  Rubber oxidizes over time and becomes glassy.  Shoes that sit for a long time do the same thing.  Scrub that oxidation off, the rubber should regain it's tact.  It's easy to tell the difference with simple touch.  Avoid heating the rubber too much, as the glue is heat activated and can result in delamination.  My 2 cents.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349
Zabadoo · · Grand Rapids, MI · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 15
s.price wrote:

OP, why hesitate to call up the resoler? That would have been first on my list. Feedback is vital to any company. Good or Bad.

FWIW I doubt it is the rubber. I have been resoling my own shoes for over 20 years and have never had bad rubber.

Thread drift alert.

WOAH!  I hadn't thought of resoling my own shoes.  Is it tough or is it basically just getting the materials (glue, heat gun? and rubber) and getting after it?  

I'd be fine doing a shoddy job on my first pair or two.  Learning, more than saving money, would be the goal.

Beean · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

Anyone got the number for Rock and Resole? 

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Beean wrote:

Anyone got the number for Rock and Resole? 

I'm so glad you asked. It's in this thread. I think. Somewhere:

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/107634735/phone-number-for-rock-and-resole

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
s.price wrote:

Tough? No, but I have a nice shop setup with quality tools. 

You will do a shoddy job or ten when learning.

I can confirm this. Plus, the resole kit (from 5.10; anyone else out there with one? Mad Rock did for a short time, but that was 10+ yr ago) runs at least $29 so it's not signif. cheaper than having it done for you. Mostly you save shipping, that's about it.  And rand repairs are really tough to pull off.

Brandt Allen · · Joshua Tree, Cal · Joined Jan 2004 · Points: 210

DE - Now you have a good excuse for why you can't do those routes that your girlfriend cruises.

D. Evans · · Tustin, California · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 215

Guy, my footwork is the only thing that hasn't suffered!!!!LOL!!! OK, well, maybe a little.

Brandt, STFU! LOL. Just kidding bro! Love you....and yes, she can climb pretty well!

FWIW, I haven't totally given up on the shoes. I'm gonna' rough them up a bit and try again tomorrow night.

One question for those suggesting that a resole needs "breaking in." Why don't brand new shoes need same? The final step any reputable resoler and shoe manufacturer does is rough up the bottom.

Edges need breaking in but not the bottom.

I'm surprised no one has commented on the fact that the Pinnacles were not crowded! That is beyond believable.

Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860

Back in the mid 2000's, Alf would resole shoes in the camper on his truck using only a knife and torch.  Typically he'd post up at the high traffic free camping crags.  I've gotten good results doing my own, only tools used were a knife, heat gun, and a band sander.  One tip I got from Alf, was to thin out the Barge glue, or rubber cement with acetone.  Alf used more acetone than glue.  At the time, Alf was 5.10's #4 resoler in the nation, base on amount of rubber purchased.

Will Handy · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 10
D. Evans wrote:

One question for those suggesting that a resole needs "breaking in." Why don't brand new shoes need same? The final step any reputable resoler and shoe manufacturer does is rough up the bottom.

I've definitely had new shoes that needed breaking in. Similar experience to your OP. Slipping on holds that they shouldn't be, side by side comparison with an old pair. Much to my relief, after a few gym sessions they were as good or better than the old pair.

D. Evans · · Tustin, California · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 215

Hey you all!

OK, I may have been a bit hasty.

I'm giving the rubber a second chance.

It might not be as bad as previously suspected.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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