Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Clay Watson, Tyler Phillips
Page Views: 1,111 total · 5/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Aug 22, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is a super fun crack system with several cruxes and good rests. Its a great route for sport climbers who want to learn how to place gear. It traverses a little and protecting your second is almost more important than protecting yourself so sew it up.

You can obviously go low and make it a lot easier but it's a lot more fun to contrive yourself into staying high in the beginning upper crack. Mostly graded 9-ish because the crux of Hibachi Time is about that grade.

This was the day I met Tyler Phillips way back in the day. He and Luke had given us so many fun new lines and I thought there was no better way to say thank you than to do a new, low impact line with him. So lucky to have great friends like Tyler!!

Location Suggest change

On the left and out of the creek bed about 20 -30 feet upstream from the bolts of Hibatchi time. Look up and left at the anchors of Burning Embers with big fatty chains from which to TR and project that really fun climb. The crack system diaganols up and under a series of roofs for 80? or so feet. There is now a little purple graffiti right by the start.

Protection Suggest change

Set of cams from tcu's up to hand sized with extra medium cam or two around orange tcu through .5 or .75 camalot and long runners. I also used two old style #4 camalots and would have liked a #5 for the last 10 feet. It isn't mandatory but would be nice. We used our #5 camalot (but a medium nut works) to hang a rope bag at the bottom belay to keep the rope out of the creek. 

You could get away with a second #3 in place of one of the #4's. It would be really weird to actually climb this as though you were jamming a crack that size because you use the crack like a jug rail as you traverse up and left. Just think of it as an excuse to drag those big cams that you paid all that money for and haven't actually used in several years. I think a 60m rope would work but I used a 70.

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