Type: Trad, 95 ft (29 m), 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,654 total · 27/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on May 18, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

P1: Take the chimney all the way up, or escape right. One number 6 Camalot extended (and one small cam if you elect the traverse) for protection. Not really R rated. The anchor can be seen easily from the bottom of the first pitch.

P2: You can either solo the short face left of the roof up to the next pair of bolts, or you can start right, climb up to a roof and traverse over if you'd like to protect it. Very short pitch.

P3: You can either climb a slightly overhanging jug haul, or you can move a bit right at the short arete to top out. Belay from the rap anchors at the top, just over the lip and spare the tree.

Descent: If you're facing the river, the rap anchor is behind you, adjacent to the tree. There are a pair of bolts and rings just over the edge. Make sure you use caution rigging your rap. It's a straight shot down a mostly free-hanging rappel. Use a 70 just to make sure.

Location Suggest change

After you pass under the bridge, where Fayette Station road turns into Rt. 60/90, look for a pulloff under a big rock overhang. If you park here, it's less than a five minute walk back the direction you just drove to get to the Pinnacle. You can also part at Junkyard. It's a few extra minutes of walking back down the road, but it's not far at all. The Pinnacle is small and the route is obvious. Just walk around either side and you'll see it.

Protection Suggest change

If you have Big Bros and don't want to run it out, bring them. Otherwise a #6 Camalot fits about halfway up the first pitch. A small cam will fit in if you traverse right out of the chimney to top out the first pitch. A selection of singles from hand to finger size, and a set of stoppers will be more than adequate for this one.

Anchors: Two glue-ins at the top of the first pitch. Bolts and rings at the top of the second pitch. For the third pitch please use the two bolt anchor just over the lip (toward the cliff) - not the tree. Use the same two bolt anchor to rap down to the ground. A 60 meter rope is sufficient.

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