Wild country REVO

Wild Country Hi Zachary, the Revo will be available in the US exclusively through REI this winter, followed by a selection of preferred independent retailers in 2018.

Many thanks for your interest!
- The Wild Country Team

Like · Reply · 1 · 18 April at 16:36

from their FB page last week

Does anyone know whether this device could be used in guide mode at least in a manner similar to a gri gri?  Seems like it would work but can't find info either way on that.

Christopher Smith wrote:

Does anyone know whether this device could be used in guide mode at least in a manner similar to a gri gri?  Seems like it would work but can't find info either way on that.

Unlike a grigri it would require a full rotation to lock it would also probably have issues with back feeding, your hand on the rope would actually make things worse by stopping the clutch engaging.

"Available for preorder on REI"

that guy named seb wrote:

Unlike a grigri it would require a full rotation to lock it would also probably have issues with back feeding, your hand on the rope would actually make things worse by stopping the clutch engaging.

Touche, I could see doing a indirect with this thing I guess but guide mode seems like it would be too awkward, like you literally have to let go if your partner falls otherwise you won't be able to brake it properly but at the same time your second has to fall with enough velocity to engage the clutch.

Christopher Smith wrote:

Touche, I could see doing a indirect with this thing I guess but guide mode seems like it would be too awkward, like you literally have to let go if your partner falls otherwise you won't be able to brake it properly but at the same time your second has to fall with enough velocity to engage the clutch.

C- I've played with it quite a bit. Guide mode will be interesting because of its engagement. You can manually lock it but it still takes at least 1 revolution or less to engagement, so the ability to "micro-lockoff" like a grigri would be hard.

a second falling would easily engage the mechanism

WadeM wrote:

C- I've played with it quite a bit. Guide mode will be interesting because of its engagement. You can manually lock it but it still takes at least 1 revolution or less to engagement, so the ability to "micro-lockoff" like a grigri would be hard.

a second falling would easily engage the mechanism

Don't you have to flip one of those tabs up to manually engage it?

I personally would just use the revo on a redirect most of the time and off my harness when I couldn't/shouldn't use redirect, but if you wanted to use it in guide mode what about redirecting the brake strand above the masterpoint. That way you have braking power if your follower falls while your hand is on. Obviously it would give out more slack than a grigri but I think it would work, although it probably would be the best option.

eli poss wrote:

I personally would just use the revo on a redirect most of the time and off my harness when I couldn't/shouldn't use redirect, but if you wanted to use it in guide mode what about redirecting the brake strand above the masterpoint. That way you have braking power if your follower falls while your hand is on. Obviously it would give out more slack than a grigri but I think it would work, although it probably would be the best option.

I wonder how easily you could pull in slack with it setup with the redirect of the brake strand.  Seems like it would be a pain as it would be riding on the teeth that are used to brake it without activating the clutch.  I'm at a point atm were I'm looking for a new setup for multipitch as I've had enough of the quirks of the Smart Alpine.  I'm kind of thinking about doing a gri gri for that but I will still need an ATC of some sort for rapping (which I do have one that is a non-guide ATC).  I'm thinking if I do get the Revo that I would pair it with a guide ATC and just use the guide ATC direct on hanging belays and do a redirect and the Revo for ledge belays.  Still not sure about the idea of the bulk on that device though with doing things like chimneys.

There's a lot of chatter here about using the REVO in manners it was clearly not intended. From all the propaganda Ive seen of it so far, it would appear to be marketed more at the single pitch climber and beginner/novice belayer.

It does not appear to be intended as a replacement for the tried and tested multi pitch belay devices.

Squeak wrote:

There's a lot of chatter here about using the REVO in manners it was clearly not intended. From all the propaganda Ive seen of it so far, it would appear to be marketed more at the single pitch climber and beginner/novice belayer.

It does not appear to be intended as a replacement for the tried and tested multi pitch belay devices.

And the Hitachi magic wand was marketed as a back massager but we all know what people used that for. My point is companies have no imagination and in the end it's the consumer who decides what a product is or isn't suitable for. For example wild country thought a double rope Revo would be too complex I give a month for some one to stick two on separate lockers and start belaying double ropes, it's going to be one hell of a ride seeing the shit people come up with.

that guy named seb wrote:

And the Hitachi magic wand was marketed as a back massager but we all know what people used that for. My point is companies have no imagination and in the end it's the consumer who decides what a product is or isn't suitable for. For example wild country thought a double rope Revo would be too complex I give a month for some one to stick two on separate lockers and start belaying double ropes, it's going to be one hell of a ride seeing the shit people come up with.

I'm sure Hitachi thought of that use-case, and built the device to hold up to a little moisture. It's simply easier to market a vibrator as a back massager.

However, Belay devices are not vibrators.

While a consumer is free to do anything they want with whatever they purchase.  Belaying how ever you want to with whatever you want to is something that should be discouraged.  Which is exactly what Squeak was saying.  

I want to know how the Revo does in the winter.  I emailed the company almost a year ago and asked that very question.  At the time they didn't know.  I had some back and forth with their marketing dept trying to get them to send me one to test.  Hey, even if your just Joe Smoe it never hurts to ask!  I've used a Silent Partner for years and it's limitations in winter make the Revo very promising.  That and the fact it's lighter doesn't hurt.  I am definately going to be trying it out for rope solo.  Probably will be making my backup loops a little shorter at first!

Squeak wrote:

There's a lot of chatter here about using the REVO in manners it was clearly not intended. From all the propaganda Ive seen of it so far, it would appear to be marketed more at the single pitch climber and beginner/novice belayer.

It does not appear to be intended as a replacement for the tried and tested multi pitch belay devices.

has anyone reviewed it for appropriate use or otherwise?

check it out: climbing.com/gear/game-chan…

Nate Tastic wrote: I'd like one for my friends and family. You know, when I talk them into belaying me even though they have zero experience.

I hope you're kidding. Really really hope so. I know and have read of many people who do this, and it so often leads to tragedy.