Mt Sill Swiss Arete conditions - crampons and ice axe required?

Yes sir, an excellent climb. The weather was great. And the climbing was fun, occasionally exposed, and safe. Plus, what a view looking south from the top! The last pitch we intentionally went up and left through some short steep crack sections that ended up being really fun. Not the easiest way to the top, but a cool way to top out.

Bumping this thread with a question about conditions and the approach, specifically getting to Glacier Notch.  

I plan on heading up this way in a couple of weeks, just after Labor Day, to climb the Swiss Arete.  The standard approach for the Swiss Arete goes up to Glacier Notch before crossing the L shaped snowfield to the climb.  The Supertopo doesn't mention anything about a bergschrund below Glacier Notch, but the Secor and Moynier guides seem to indicate there is a 'schrund to cross to get off the glacier to gain the gully that heads up to the notch.  

Anyone been this way recently?  How was this approach?  Not sure how this year compares to years past with the big winter we had.  

I plan on bringing an axe and crampons regardless, but wondering if I can get away with approach shoes and light strap on crampons or if we should bring real mountain boots.  I have plenty of experience on snow, I'm not too worried about moderate snow in my approach shoes & crampons but if we have to cross a 'schrund on firm neve, boots might be nice.

Also, anyone ever approach this from the S Fork of Big Pine Creek?  Seems you could avoid the Glacier Notch altogether and just boot up the L shaped snowfield as far as necessary.  

Thanks in advance.  

Yo Mike, approach shoes and aluminum crampons, leave the axe

ze dirtbag wrote:

Yo Mike, approach shoes and aluminum crampons, leave the axe

Sweet, thanks.  

The approach to the L-Shaped Couloir via the South Fork is very tortuous. Personally I would take an ice-axe across the glacier.

Thanks Chris.  I'll stick with the N fork.  I plan on bringing a super light axe.  Hard to leave behind if I'm on snow for any significant duration.

I was up there this weekend. Definitely crampons and ice axe are recommended. I saw someone wearing traction cleats and they looked like they were struggling from a distance to cross the glacier. When I crossed their path, I could see slipping and sliding with each step. Glacier Notch proved to be more technical than I was comfortable attempting solo. I read it was a category 3 climb up, but getting up to it required a few dicey category 4 moves that were too risky descend that I felt was above my experience level. When I met a few climbers later that day, they met the traction cleat climber and said she also bailed at the same place. Still an amazing view and can't wait to get back. Next time with a rope to help with the descend.

There have been a number of accidents in the Sierra where the climber was killed because they slipped on snow, didn't have an ice-axe and could not self-arrest. Maybe I'm getting old but I don't consider carrying a 400g ice-axe if I'm expecting a snow crossing to be a gamble with speed.