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Pitone usato nelle dolomiti?
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British PG13
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in 2-Robinson
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Couloir du Pissoir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Penn Alti TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pitone usato nelle dolomiti? T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Robinson Ridge S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Silver Fern S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Southern Cross TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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z'Vieri TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Maybe a variation to an obscure route?? |
| Page Views: | 747 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Howard on Jul 12, 2017 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Fun little adventurous alpine route that may have the feel of an FA when done with no beta. Mostly scrambly with a few distinct cruxes and decision making/ route finding moments. Not to be taken lightly due to the alpine blocky terrain, some unclean rock and sparse pro.
Finding the crack and piton described below, pass lichen and moss encrusted rock being careful to avoid it by using good holds, clean rock and climbing an interesting sequence. Ascend this (1st crux) and traverse right ~80' on a sandy ledge to belay at a tree. (This crux can be protected for the follower by slinging multiple large limbs of a bush.)
~50 to the right of the tree is a hornet's nest. Start next to the tree and ascend loose blocky terrain climbing the solidly attached rock of high quality.
At the summit where it steepens, head right. A good yellow alien where you begin traversing right inspires confidence. An interesting traverse move that calls for finding positive but small holds (crux 2) finishes the route psychologically before you complete the final 15' top out scramble. (Final traverse crux can be protected for follower above with a hard to spot small cam inside a well-attached block.)
The route name itself is an Italian reference to the piton whose meaning can easily be ascertained once translated.
Finding the crack and piton described below, pass lichen and moss encrusted rock being careful to avoid it by using good holds, clean rock and climbing an interesting sequence. Ascend this (1st crux) and traverse right ~80' on a sandy ledge to belay at a tree. (This crux can be protected for the follower by slinging multiple large limbs of a bush.)
~50 to the right of the tree is a hornet's nest. Start next to the tree and ascend loose blocky terrain climbing the solidly attached rock of high quality.
At the summit where it steepens, head right. A good yellow alien where you begin traversing right inspires confidence. An interesting traverse move that calls for finding positive but small holds (crux 2) finishes the route psychologically before you complete the final 15' top out scramble. (Final traverse crux can be protected for follower above with a hard to spot small cam inside a well-attached block.)
The route name itself is an Italian reference to the piton whose meaning can easily be ascertained once translated.
Location
Begin by hiking up the area gully. The start GPS coordinates are 37.772139, -119.127734 and begins below a short section of crack beneath a piton inscribed with "made in Italy".
Top out coordinates: 37.772196, -119.127708. (Admittedly requires too much precision.)
To descend, I hiked further up to meet up with the prominent Gem lakes hiker trail, veering left on the bluff top through a social trail in brush to the right of a short steep boulder face. (See pic.) As you hit the T intersection, turn right because that way descends to return to parking < half a mile.
Top out coordinates: 37.772196, -119.127708. (Admittedly requires too much precision.)
To descend, I hiked further up to meet up with the prominent Gem lakes hiker trail, veering left on the bluff top through a social trail in brush to the right of a short steep boulder face. (See pic.) As you hit the T intersection, turn right because that way descends to return to parking < half a mile.
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