Guides in the Alps
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Im planning a family vacation sometime in the next 2 years and would like to do a (roughly) 2-4 day climb in the Alps. Since I wont have a partner, I will probably look to hire a guide. As of now I was thinking of flying into Zurich and spending some time in southern Germany as well. This could be adjusted based on what I decide to climb and what the family wants to see. My ideal climb would be an alpine climb like the Eiger, but I need to do more route research. Anyone have guide recommendations, specific route recommendations etc? Much appreciated. |
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Also, if anyone has done any highly rewarding class 3-4 routes that are easily soloed, id be interested in that as well. Just thought I should go for one of the big ones as this may be my only trip to the Alps. |
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As a heads up, getting a guide for 4 days straight in the mountains in Chamonix will be somewhat challenging. It seems that most guides like to be home for dinner out there. I spoke to the fellow from High Mountain Guides, and he seems like he is one of the few folks who is up for taking new clients on harder longer routes. |
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Jake wander wrote: Not sure I know what the term "easily" soloed means, but there are many great class 3-4 routes in the Alps How about at least pick a country? (or two) - so we can narrow down to something resembling specific suggestions? I'd suggest you consider "via ferrata" routes, since many are designed be done solo at a class 3 or 4 difficulty level, and many are in very spectacular settings -- and with dramatic exposure that you'd normally expect only from difficult 5.xx routes -- also give you a cross-cultural climbing experience. Ken |
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kenr wrote: for easily soloed i mean routes i could climb in a day without any crevasse concerns and on solid rock since i wouldnt be roping up for solo. for the countries, we were very tentatively planning for switzerland and germany. thanks for the info on VF, i was under the impression it was mainly in the dolomites. |
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Jake wander wrote: Solid rock is a concern for many routes in the countries you mentioned. That's why VF is a nice option. Gives you a fighting chance if a hold breaks while you're soloing. In Germany and eastern Switzerland, the word often used for Via Ferrata is "klettersteig". Some worthwhile VFs in Germany are the Alpspitze near Garmisch -- or for a big full day adventure, the Jubliaemsgrat traverse (unprotected sections with loose rock) to or from the Zugspitze, with taxi + lift / cog railway shuttle). The Hindelanger klettersteig in SW Germany is rather fun (with "free" moves with hands and feet directly on the rock) and spectacular. In SE Germany, lots of pretty hiking around Berchtesgaden but I've been unimpressed with the VF in B (but the new one on the Untersberg nearby is fun). Switzerland (expensive and ? rules-conscious?) I generally avoid. I've heard good things about the Jaegihorn VF. If you open yourself to western Austria, you get lots more options for VF and scrambles (e.g. on the S side of Berchtesgaden, also in the Dachstein). Ken P.S. Another reason to consider Austria (or the Dolomites) is that the interesting "classic alpine peaks" in Switzerland are just higher. So if you hire a guide, they are going to insist on a multi-day plan for acclimatization to altitude. |
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Lots of babbling... contact a guide service in Switzerland and discuss your project climb with them directly. They will be most accommodating. Reid |
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This site is a useful for climbs, scrambles and VFs in S Germany and N Austria, complete with photos and topos (in German): http://www.bergsteigen.com/ It looks like a few routes are also covered in Switzerland. |
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There are a bunch of American IFMGA guides that work in the Alps regularly. Dale Remsberg - https://www.gravityguide.com https://www.instagram.com/daleremsberg/ Jonathan Spitzer Tico Gangulee All are IFMGA and work in Europe. Dale is there now. |
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My first question would be where do you want to go? Are you planning on Zurich because you want to see that area or because you'd thought that there's climbing nearby? You mentioned the Eiger, but I'm not sure whether you're thinking of the N. Face (which seems a ridiculous thing to think you could get guided up) or the Mittleggi, etc. If you're open to different areas then do some research on guides and see what they typically guide. I think fun one day objectives would be the Cassin Route or North Ridge of the Biz Badile. Lots of stuff in Cham clearly. Don't overlook the Dolomites either. Lots of underrated classics on dramatic looking peaks, and via ferrata if you're without a partner. |