None of this tree nonsense is necessary. You can easily plug a number 2 in near the top of the crack "roof" then its perfect hands there as well and an easy left leg mantl-y-doober and yer off to the races

All Locations > California > Tahquitz & Suic… > Tahquitz Rock > (g) W Face > W Face - Right… > Fingertip Traverse (5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c)

None of this tree nonsense is necessary. You can easily plug a number 2 in near the top of the crack "roof" then its perfect hands there as well and an easy left leg mantl-y-doober and yer off to the races

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Slab finish after lunch rock, captured from Vampire

Just after the 5.3 lieback... which in my opinion is not exactly casual 5.3... kinda polished for the feet.

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Kyle Wills

Sep 6, 2015

“None of this tree nonsense is necessary. You can easily plug a number 2 in near the top of the crack "roof" then its perfect hands there as well and an easy left leg mantl-y-doober and yer off to the races”

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Nearby Photos

Photo of Tahquitz Rock, with the Fingertip Traverse route drawn on top. The photo is one I took with a 300 mm lens from the highway near Pine Cove.

Here's a pic of the 5.3 layback.

This fixed piton and the dihedral to the right is Fingergrip (5.8). Instead, go left after the 5.3 layback pitch (P3) to get to the fingertip traverse.

Climbing topo of Fingertip Traverse at Tahquitz. The most recent version of this topo can always be found at https://bitbucket.org/ben-crowell/tahquitz
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Catherine exiting Lunch Ledge after coming up the Fingertip Traverse!

Slab finish after lunch rock, captured from Vampire

None of this tree nonsense is necessary. You can easily plug a number 2 in near the top of the crack "roof" then its perfect hands there as well and an easy left leg mantl-y-doober and yer off to the races

Just after the 5.3 lieback... which in my opinion is not exactly casual 5.3... kinda polished for the feet.

At the base.

Looking down the fingertip traverse on lead from the cruxy tree mid-pitch. Wouldn't trust my life to the one remaining fixed pin on this pitch (was able to be pushed in some).

The actual fingertip traverse section, the money pitch. The slab to the left, not fully show, is slick, featureless and drops off quickly.

Russell usually free solo's this route. He was my helpful guide and followed.

Looking Down the "approach gully" from the tree

The first half of the fingertip traverse. Taken on lead from the tree. My partner talked up the exposure a bit too much. Its fun, but its no thriller.

Approaching the belay at the top of the layback pitch, April 2022

Sitting comfortably at the lunch ledge.

Debbie just after stepping off the tree onto the face.

I thought I was on the 3rd pitch but it was just on the left were there's two pitons just before the traverse.

Christy leading the tree start.

The 3rd/4th class at the start is kinda spicy. ;)

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