The Gold Standard
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2 from 3 votes
Type: | Sport, 45 ft (14 m) |
FA: | Jeff Baldwin, Matt Scullion, Nov. 23, 2008 |
Page Views: | 900 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | John Steiger on Jul 12, 2017 · Updates |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Description
Seven reddish-painted bolts protect this short but interesting overhanging route right of Lycra Eater. Start up Lycra Eater for a body-length until the first bolt can be reached on the right. Surmount the roof (crux), clip three more bolts then step left (at the route's 4th bolt) to climb steeper and better rock to the last bulge. Here we finished the climb by moving left to ring anchors just over the lip, which seemed awkward; it may be better to turn the bulge and continue up a slab past a tan-painted bolt to another set of ring anchors maybe 25 feet higher (you can’t see them, but they’re there). Also, there is a bolt that appears off-route left of the sixth bolt; we didn’t try to use it (maybe it’s for a variation off of Lycra Eater?). Grade may be height-dependent.
3 Comments