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Routes in 8-Moynier
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Blocks to Ridge TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Center High Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Center Low Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Divine Martine S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Far Left Low Chimney S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Gully to Ridge Right side TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Left Center High Face TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Left Center Low Face TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Left High Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Left Low Face TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Mamba S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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NorthEast ridge Direct S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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NorthEast ridge Left side S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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NorthEast ridge Right side TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Papageno S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Remix S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Right High Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Right Low Chimney TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unmix S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Voie Directe S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Zygofolis S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Ken + Sharon Roberts |
| Page Views: | 728 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Aug 2, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Fun climbing though short.
Mainly a connection to make a multi-pitch route from left bottom of Lewis sector to left top of the Silverhorn - (most obvious to connect up to "Voie Directe" or "Zygofolis").
Up on rock to small ledge, next step left about six feet to crack, finish up that to reach Mid-Level Ledge.
Variation 1: Above the small ledge, instead take the face right of the crack (5.3).
Variation 2: When reach the small small ledge, instead walk Left (slightly) down and around corner to find chimney. Finish up route "Far Left Low Chimney" to left end of Mid-Level Ledge.
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
Mainly a connection to make a multi-pitch route from left bottom of Lewis sector to left top of the Silverhorn - (most obvious to connect up to "Voie Directe" or "Zygofolis").
Up on rock to small ledge, next step left about six feet to crack, finish up that to reach Mid-Level Ledge.
Variation 1: Above the small ledge, instead take the face right of the crack (5.3).
Variation 2: When reach the small small ledge, instead walk Left (slightly) down and around corner to find chimney. Finish up route "Far Left Low Chimney" to left end of Mid-Level Ledge.
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
Location
Almost to the left end of lower part of Miroir face, left of mossy shallow wide gully.
- - > See B on this Photo
- - > See B on this Photo
Protection
4 bolts to two-bolts-connected-with-chain anchor with rappel ring attached.
. . (bolts and upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel, installed 2017).
. . (chain + lower hanger + rappel ring are Plated steel, installed 2018).
Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Moynier sector.
Could use the anchor at the left end of cliff top as a top-anchor for TR, and have belayer on Mid-Level Ledge.
. . (bolts and upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel, installed 2017).
. . (chain + lower hanger + rappel ring are Plated steel, installed 2018).
Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Moynier sector.
Could use the anchor at the left end of cliff top as a top-anchor for TR, and have belayer on Mid-Level Ledge.
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