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Routes in 8-Moynier
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Blocks to Ridge TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Center High Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Center Low Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Divine Martine S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Far Left Low Chimney S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Gully to Ridge Right side TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Left Center High Face TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Left Center Low Face TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Left High Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Left Low Face TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Mamba S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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NorthEast ridge Direct S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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NorthEast ridge Left side S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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NorthEast ridge Right side TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Papageno S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Remix S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Right High Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Right Low Chimney TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unmix S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Voie Directe S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Zygofolis S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Ken + Sharon Roberts |
| Page Views: | 884 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Jul 31, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Interesting moves in interesting spaces. Two roofs (both avoidable) and some interesting flakes to grab.
. . (formerly called "Beyond Left").
. . Nice to first start by climbing up "Left Low Chimney" or "Divine Martine".
. . Bolts for this route are sometimes rather close to those for adjacent route to its right. Also the Variation gets its own bolt. So clip only the bolts you need for your chosen climbing -- when in doubt clip the one farther left.
Easy up right side of dead tree to under roof, and pull over the roof.
. . Variation (also interesting): Scramble up on blocky rocks to right side of roof. Traverse horizontal Left just barely above roof.
Next traverse further left a few feet above top of roof. Then up, aiming for overhang which is a ways below the high inside left-facing corner under right side of peak at left end of summit ridge. Next climb around left side of overhang and diagonal left to a crack/flake. Up this to summit roof, staying well left of the obvious left-facing inside corner (which goes up to two-bolt anchor). Finish over right side of roof (about five feet left of two-bolt anchor).
. . (There is another two-bolt anchor over top of the peak in a little gully on its SW side).
descent: See options under Description of route "Voie Directe".
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . (formerly called "Beyond Left").
. . Nice to first start by climbing up "Left Low Chimney" or "Divine Martine".
. . Bolts for this route are sometimes rather close to those for adjacent route to its right. Also the Variation gets its own bolt. So clip only the bolts you need for your chosen climbing -- when in doubt clip the one farther left.
Easy up right side of dead tree to under roof, and pull over the roof.
. . Variation (also interesting): Scramble up on blocky rocks to right side of roof. Traverse horizontal Left just barely above roof.
Next traverse further left a few feet above top of roof. Then up, aiming for overhang which is a ways below the high inside left-facing corner under right side of peak at left end of summit ridge. Next climb around left side of overhang and diagonal left to a crack/flake. Up this to summit roof, staying well left of the obvious left-facing inside corner (which goes up to two-bolt anchor). Finish over right side of roof (about five feet left of two-bolt anchor).
. . (There is another two-bolt anchor over top of the peak in a little gully on its SW side).
descent: See options under Description of route "Voie Directe".
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
Location
At left end of Mid-Level Ledge, just above from Left Low Chimney.
- - > See K on this Photo
Could reach bottom of "Left Low Chimney" by scrambling up around left side of sector 7 Lewis, then hike up diagonal right up to obvious chimney at left end of bottom of sector 8 Moynier (under the Silverhorn mini-peak at left end of summit ridge).
Could reach bottom of "Divine Martine" by scrambling up around left side of sector 7 Lewis (or by leading "Salamander" on Lewis), then hike right on wide grassy ledge like 20-30 feet, and up right to left end of lower wall of sector Moynier (under the Silverhorn mini-peak at left end of summit ridge).
- - > See K on this Photo
Could reach bottom of "Left Low Chimney" by scrambling up around left side of sector 7 Lewis, then hike up diagonal right up to obvious chimney at left end of bottom of sector 8 Moynier (under the Silverhorn mini-peak at left end of summit ridge).
Could reach bottom of "Divine Martine" by scrambling up around left side of sector 7 Lewis (or by leading "Salamander" on Lewis), then hike right on wide grassy ledge like 20-30 feet, and up right to left end of lower wall of sector Moynier (under the Silverhorn mini-peak at left end of summit ridge).
Protection
9 bolts up to two-bolts-connected-with-chain top anchor with opposing-gate carabiners just below cliff-top (as of 2017).
. . (bolts and hangers are 304 Stainless, installed 2017).
. . (for details on top anchor, see under Protection for the route "Far Left").
Also for parties who want to "top out" on the left summit of the Dent d'Argentine, there is a two-bolt anchor on the other side (SW) of the left high point of the summit ridge. These two bolts are down in a small corner/gully.
. . (for details on this anchor, see under Protection for the route "Far Left").
Protection for Trad leading is unknown, and likely inadequate.
Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Moynier sector.
note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.
In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.
. . (bolts and hangers are 304 Stainless, installed 2017).
. . (for details on top anchor, see under Protection for the route "Far Left").
Also for parties who want to "top out" on the left summit of the Dent d'Argentine, there is a two-bolt anchor on the other side (SW) of the left high point of the summit ridge. These two bolts are down in a small corner/gully.
. . (for details on this anchor, see under Protection for the route "Far Left").
Protection for Trad leading is unknown, and likely inadequate.
Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Moynier sector.
note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.
In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.
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