My goal for my next bleau trip is to climb Super prestat 7B+ slab so I want a shoe that is great for smearing/slab climbing. (I'm a indoor climber for 90% of the time so I also do a lot of steep boulders) What do you guys recommend?
P.S. I'm not interested in other shoe recommendation's
Those shoes are very similar, so whichever one fits you better is the better shoe for you. I like the Skwama myself, and Scarpa shoes generally don't fit me.
Watching a quick youtube of La Super Prestat, it seems more like edging slab than friction slab. Personally I'd want a stiffer shoe.
Have you been on this problem already? It's a crimp/edge problem, except for the weight transfer in the beginning, where your smear-edging on a smaller knob. Pretty scary moves up top, btw, bring spotters and lots of pads :)
Given the choice, you would do better with Instinct VSR (the orange ones).
Thanks for the tip, I have seen the boulder once irl and focused too much on the start I guess, I thought great shoes for smearing would be the best option since one of my friends climbed it on Cobra's
P.S. I can't reply that much since I'm a new member
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