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Routes in Frazier Lake
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Cold Forged Steel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Leap of Faith T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Vanishing Point, The T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 420 ft (127 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Tom Kalakay and Bill Dockins (2005) |
| Page Views: | 1,072 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Zach Wahrer on Jul 24, 2017 |
| Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
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Description
Get ready for some calf-burning, steep slab action! Leap of Faith is a mostly bolted mixed route that is an excellent choice if you want to try a shorter route up Frazier Buttress. The rock is mostly solid, the climbing continuous and relatively well protected.
P1: Clip a bolt, then step across. Clip a few more bolts, climbing past a tree. When the shallow dihedral opens up and slabs out, cut hard right to a two bolt anchor. (5.10a, 90')
P2: Head right off the belay, following a line of bolts. This leads you to traverse out from under a roof, and up to a small dihedral. I placed a few pieces between the last bolt and the anchor, and was glad to have them. Beware, as this section contains some loose blocks. A grapefruit sized hunk broke off after I'd been standing on it for awhile. Thankfully I had a good hand hold at the time. Belay at two bolt anchor. (5.9, 70')
P3: Crux pitch, long and sustained. From the belay, quest up along the bolt line, occasionally placing your own gear in between. The crux is well protected, although I found the clip immediately afterwards to be quite difficult. Continue pulling small overlaps and tackling traversing slab problems. Between the last bolt and the anchor is pretty far, but I found a runnel for a dubious #2 C4. Belay at an uncomfortable hanging belay with a 2 bolt anchor. (5.10c, 160')
P4: Head up and left from the belay, clipping bolts. After several, they appear to end, but there is still one more if you can spot it. I traversed up and left (line of least resistance), then had to traverse back right to clip it. Belay from a 2 bolt anchor directly above. (5.10a, 100')
From here, scramble to the top and either rappel from the tree, or climb to the summit block via the last pitch of Vanishing Point.
P1: Clip a bolt, then step across. Clip a few more bolts, climbing past a tree. When the shallow dihedral opens up and slabs out, cut hard right to a two bolt anchor. (5.10a, 90')
P2: Head right off the belay, following a line of bolts. This leads you to traverse out from under a roof, and up to a small dihedral. I placed a few pieces between the last bolt and the anchor, and was glad to have them. Beware, as this section contains some loose blocks. A grapefruit sized hunk broke off after I'd been standing on it for awhile. Thankfully I had a good hand hold at the time. Belay at two bolt anchor. (5.9, 70')
P3: Crux pitch, long and sustained. From the belay, quest up along the bolt line, occasionally placing your own gear in between. The crux is well protected, although I found the clip immediately afterwards to be quite difficult. Continue pulling small overlaps and tackling traversing slab problems. Between the last bolt and the anchor is pretty far, but I found a runnel for a dubious #2 C4. Belay at an uncomfortable hanging belay with a 2 bolt anchor. (5.10c, 160')
P4: Head up and left from the belay, clipping bolts. After several, they appear to end, but there is still one more if you can spot it. I traversed up and left (line of least resistance), then had to traverse back right to clip it. Belay from a 2 bolt anchor directly above. (5.10a, 100')
From here, scramble to the top and either rappel from the tree, or climb to the summit block via the last pitch of Vanishing Point.
Location
This route starts off the ledge on the left side of Frazier Buttress' east face. After your complete an exposed rock traverse on the approach trail, turn left and begin scrambling up the ledge. Once you pass two trees, a shallow cave, and a steep section, look directly behind you for the line of bolts up a shallow dihedral. If you reach a deeper cave, you've gone too far.
Protection
We brought 15 quick draws and 6 alpine draws. I think I used them all on the crux pitch. If you are really comfortable on this kind of terrain (steep, techy limestone slab), you could likely get away without a trad rack. We took a single rack from #3 C4 to #00 C3, along with some nuts. I never found a place for the #3, and most of the gear I used was sized from #.75 to #1 C3. Didn't place a single nut.
All anchors are bolted, and have rap hardware, so with 2 ropes you could descend the entire route, or bail if weather moved in. Hike almost straight up from the finish to reach the tree that allows a single rope rappel to the descent gully.
All anchors are bolted, and have rap hardware, so with 2 ropes you could descend the entire route, or bail if weather moved in. Hike almost straight up from the finish to reach the tree that allows a single rope rappel to the descent gully.
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