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Routes in New Wave
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Air and Pleasant Danger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Barking Spiders S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black Dog Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cold Wave S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Dark Star S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Daytripper, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Night Crawler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Paradox S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Retrospade S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Roaring Silence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Salley's Alley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sam Spade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Schist Another Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Schist Another Sport Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Smokestack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Strict Scrutiny S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Ten of Spades S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Today Morning S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Vallee Daze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Weevil Knievil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Chris Smith 11/98 |
| Page Views: | 4,199 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on May 29, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Looking up you wouldn't know what a cool climb this is.... I also couldn't judge how challenging it would be.... From the bottom, it looked like a steep slab, but once on it, it seemed vertical with super-techy climbing (which I always enjoy)...Basically having to adjust and readjust my foot work for every hand move on the second half of the route...A great test of mid-grade technical 5.10 climbing....
The start is no harder than 5.8, lulling you in to a false sense of security.... You then hit the upper headwall where things get steeper and more challenging.... This section involves tiny crimps, sidepulls, underclings, and even slopers...even clipping the chains presents a challenge cause the hard climbing won't let up once it starts....
The start is no harder than 5.8, lulling you in to a false sense of security.... You then hit the upper headwall where things get steeper and more challenging.... This section involves tiny crimps, sidepulls, underclings, and even slopers...even clipping the chains presents a challenge cause the hard climbing won't let up once it starts....
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