Naked and Afraid
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.3 from 41 votes
Type: | Sport, TR, 25 ft (8 m) |
FA: | Jim Thornburg and Kim Pfabe |
Page Views: | 2,182 total · 27/month |
Shared By: | Brian Quiter on Jul 17, 2017 · Updates |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
The crux of this climb is at the very beginning. From the adjacent boulder, grab the left-facing sidepull, find a good right hand and then immediately pull through an overhang to get onto Peeper's Rock. A left heel hook can help. From this opening move it's about 15 feet down to the ground/tide. Don't look down if the thought of that fall scares you.
The main face above the first bolt is much easier, until an interesting move or two between the last bolt and the anchor. If you're stuck, look to the right of the last bolt to find better hands.
The moves off the deck are the fun/hard part - rope or otherwise, it's a little invigorating to step of a ledge and onto an overhang above a treacherous fall.
One can start this route from the sand up the cave below, but this adds a V6 bouldering problem (that is very difficult to protect) before the main start of the climb.
The main face above the first bolt is much easier, until an interesting move or two between the last bolt and the anchor. If you're stuck, look to the right of the last bolt to find better hands.
The moves off the deck are the fun/hard part - rope or otherwise, it's a little invigorating to step of a ledge and onto an overhang above a treacherous fall.
One can start this route from the sand up the cave below, but this adds a V6 bouldering problem (that is very difficult to protect) before the main start of the climb.
Location
The bolts are visible from the base area on the north side of the Main rock. The climb is just above/left of a pretty impressive overhang on the south side of peepers rock. Stays dry (most) all the time due to its elevated start point but the belayer may get splashed by surf. Rappel ring at the top
Protection
3 newish glue-in bolts to a two bolt anchor with a rap ring. This route previously had OLD bolts that were slowly rusting away.
A stick clip is strongly recommended to clip the first bolt before leading this climb, or a person taller than 6'3" might be able to reach it by hand. Without pre-clipping the first bolt this climb is rated R, given that the start is the crux and sits above a nasty 15-foot fall to a rocky landing.
You can also easily set up a top rope after doing the (stiff) 5.9 on the East Face, Peeping Tom.
A stick clip is strongly recommended to clip the first bolt before leading this climb, or a person taller than 6'3" might be able to reach it by hand. Without pre-clipping the first bolt this climb is rated R, given that the start is the crux and sits above a nasty 15-foot fall to a rocky landing.
You can also easily set up a top rope after doing the (stiff) 5.9 on the East Face, Peeping Tom.
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