Anyone planning to use the normal rappel-from-summit bolts should either bring a crescent wrench or a bolting kit (latter solution would be best). The nut on the righthand/newer bolt was very loose, so we screwed it back on as best we could by hand. Not exactly confidence inspiring. The shiny, modern bolted anchor on the way to the normal anchor looks great but probably isn't useful for normal descent from the long routes... this original anchor should be upgraded.

All Locations > New Mexico > Las Cruces Area… > Organ Mountains > Sugarloaf Area > Sugarloaf

Anyone planning to use the normal rappel-from-summit bolts should either bring a crescent wrench or a bolting kit (latter solution would be best). The nut on the righthand/newer bolt was very loose, so we screwed it back on as best we could by hand. Not exactly confidence inspiring. The shiny, modern bolted anchor on the way to the normal anchor looks great but probably isn't useful for normal descent from the long routes... this original anchor should be upgraded.

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Looking up Sugarloaf. The "Eye" is visible right of center, between two trees.

This is the sign in the 2nd group parking that is key to finding the start of the trail. Either bushbash past the sign in a straight line to meet it, or go to the picnic spot in the left of the photo and veer right then left through the V gate.

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Drew Chojnowski

Jul 12, 2017

“Anyone planning to use the normal rappel-from-summit bolts should either bring a crescent wrench or a bolting kit (latter solution would be best). The nut on the righthand/newer bolt was very loose, so we screwed it back on as best we could by hand. Not exactly confidence inspiring. The shiny, modern bolted anchor on the way to the normal anchor looks great but probably isn't useful for normal descent from the long routes... this original anchor should be upgraded.”

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Nearby Photos

Rough topo of some of Sugarloaf's routes.

A little friend we ran into on the approach!

If you come across this sign early in the approach, take it seriously, you are about 500 ft from the trail you want which traverses the hillside to your right.

Another Old Topo of SugarLoaf.

Marta belaying me up an infrequently climbed section of Sugarloaf, on the way to her 56th time on the summit! This has to be a record! The x's show the bolted anchor atop P4 of the North Face route.

Tom Schuster (with Mike Edmonds on his heels) at the last pitch. The entire route can be seen spread out below him

North Face 5.7 IV

From the technical slab-y gully descent, on a beautiful late-September day.

Sugarloaf around backcounty campsite

George Goedecke and Dick Ingraham gearing up for Sugarloaf (circa late 1960s). With permission from Chris O'Brien.

Sugarloaf from the West. See [[108424423]] for [[105948446]].

Sugarloaf Mountain. The Flea Tree Dihedral route starts to the right of the obvious cave. There are other long, scary routes that start to the right of the cave.

Last rap anchor for descents via Crescendo Rap & South Rap routes. Either way, scramble down gully to the west of the notch which is left of the notch if looking back towards the summit. The anchors are on the bottom of the gully scramble at a steep drop.

South Rap's first rap anchor which IS NOT visible from the summit

South Ridge Line with anchors of South Rap on satellite image. Intermediate anchor of South Rap not shown. Other rap routes not shown

Sugarloaf from the approach trail.

Sugarloaf approach, with an imminent storm. Maybe time to turn back?

View back towards the campground from near the base of Sugarloaf.

Sugarloaf from the Marathon Route

View of a cloudy Sugarloaf on our approach hike July 7, 2012. We had nice cool climbing for the first 6 pitches (to big bivy ledge), watching storms carefully, we bailed two pitches too late and got caught in a brief thundershower on the rappel. Amazing amounts of water pouring off the face for a short while.

after the rain

Looking up Sugarloaf. The "Eye" is visible right of center, between two trees.

Anyone planning to use the normal rappel-from-summit bolts should either bring a crescent wrench or a bolting kit (latter solution would be best). The nut on the righthand/newer bolt was very loose, so we screwed it back on as best we could by hand. Not exactly confidence inspiring. The shiny, modern bolted anchor on the way to the normal anchor looks great but probably isn't useful for normal descent from the long routes... this original anchor should be upgraded.

This is the sign in the 2nd group parking that is key to finding the start of the trail. Either bushbash past the sign in a straight line to meet it, or go to the picnic spot in the left of the photo and veer right then left through the V gate.

SE wall. History???

Sugarloaf as seen from the summit of Minerva's Temple.

Start of South Ridge Line looking south from the summit. Some groups set a belay here to get to rap routes Crescendo, West, and South.

pano from half way up looking out

Head straight out on this rib to reach rap routes Crescendo, West, and South.

Sugarloaf

Currently hosting Many Times (aka Crackle Top) & Crescendo. Hard to justify the approach for just one 2-pitch line but for two it's good. South side history please.

Last rays of the November sun illuminates Sugarloaf as seen during a descent from The Wedge.

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