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West Face Direct
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.7 from 6
votes
Routes in West Face/Chimney Rock
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Fun Roof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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It Ain't Hay T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rappel Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sancho's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Scuffin Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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South Nose Exit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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West Face Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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West Face Standard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | FA: Kopczynski, Roskelley 1968 5.7/A2 FFA: J. Jones, G. Silver 1972 5.9- FWA: Kopczynski, Parks 1973 5.7/A2 |
| Page Views: | 1,374 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Driscoll on Jul 10, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Description
Pitch 1 climb the flakes to the ledge below the off-width chimney pitch. This ledge has a dead tree on it and makes an excellent belay for the crux pitch 2. The chimney is excellent with mostly stemming but some jamming the off-width. Just warning that this is old school 5.9 and very strenuous for the grade. However pro is good with large pieces low and options on the left side for smaller gear middle and up. Exit the chimney and move left on excellent ledge for belay. Pitch 3 is a fun crack, flake, block climb 5.8 with good pro. Move into the crack off the belay ledge was the hard part, after which it eases. Move up and left before a committing move out from under a small roof and your done.
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