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First Night at Fight Club
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2 from 3
votes
Routes in Hoss Garden
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First Night at Fight Club T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Haymaker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Haymaker Direct S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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I Don't Name Single Pitch Routes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Keep it Heavy T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Killshot S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Left Hook S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Right Hook S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Steiger Sanction, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Takedown S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Upper Cut S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | John Steiger, Kent Wheeler, Clay Watson |
| Page Views: | 1,046 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | tenesmus on Jul 9, 2017 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
"The eighth and final rule: If this is your first night at Fight Club, you have to fight."
Gearing up for this one always puts a lump in my throat. Not that its dangerous: there is gear everywhere. Its just a steep-ass crack system that keeps coming after you till you hit the roof.
Gearing up for this one always puts a lump in my throat. Not that its dangerous: there is gear everywhere. Its just a steep-ass crack system that keeps coming after you till you hit the roof.
Location
Starts in the main staging area just left of the arete. Clip one bolt and traverse the crack moving left to the vertical component. Protect this traverse well. We hope to straighten this out into a direct line soon.
Protection
One qd to start, a couple of long draws for the middle, standard rack from small cams to #3 camalot. I think a single set does the trick but having one or two extra pieces wouldn't hurt. Please be sure to protect yourself well as you start the traverse. This part of the cliff was found to have a little more brittle rock than the rest.
The rope gets super stuck in the crack once you pull the lip so we added a bolt out left. This is purely to keep the rope out of the crack and unless you're a supertradster you really do need to use it.
The rope gets super stuck in the crack once you pull the lip so we added a bolt out left. This is purely to keep the rope out of the crack and unless you're a supertradster you really do need to use it.
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