Big walls in the tetons?
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Is there any grade V climbing in and around Grand Teton National Park? Has anyone done a multi-day climb in this area? |
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No Big walls, but big climbs yes as well as linkups, traverses, yes. Grand Traverse: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-grand-traverse/106565238 Full exum ridge is about 2000' feet of climbing I think? https://www.mountainproject.com/v/lower-exum-ridge/105839153 , https://www.mountainproject.com/v/upper-exum-ridge/105933562 |
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t.farrell wrote: You're misunderstanding the difference between a grade V or VI rock climb and a summit that involves approach, bivi, climb, descent. |
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Certainly on Moran. See the AAJ. |
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Do the entire NW Ridge of the Enclosure and link it to the W Face of the Grand. That would be big. |
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t.farrell wrote: Are you forgetting the number 1 rule of MP? |
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I think most you'll find will be a IV. Simply not enough continuous stone to earn a V. |
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Direct South Buttress on Moran. Completing it all the way to the summit might warrant a V grade. |
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I think the Jenny lake boulders are rated V something. |
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Moran has some Grade V but generally no one does proper Grade V rock climbs in the Tetons like you would find in Yosemite. It's an alpine zone and people don't really bother to hang out on a wall overnight if they can help it- the rock is not conducive to hauling stuff and those of us who have been benighted know that even in July and August it gets cold hanging out on the side of a wall. Death Canyon has some long pure rock climbs, especially the south side of the canyon has some seldom done climbs but again they're 2000' max, not really V's. |
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Just to confirm ddriver's and DCarey's comments, the Ortenburger-Jackson guidebook rates both the NW Ridge of the Enclosure and the Direct S Buttress on Moran as grade V. A couple of other grade Vs in that book are the Jackson-Kimbrough Contortion on the Grand Teton (variation to the NW Chimney) and the Revolutionary Crest on Moran, if climbed to the summit. |
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Erik Young wrote: There's a number of grade V's...Beyer's Lookin' for Trouble. Direct South Buttress on Moran. I think most of the early classics were done over the course of a number of trips, some, multi day and certainly from high camps either on or near the routes. Consider that the East Ridge of the Grand is "only" a grade III, but, if you belayed most of the route, it'd be over 20 pitches (I counted!). |
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How was the East Ridge of the Grand Brian in SLC? That's the next route on the mountain I'd like to check out. |
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Greg Gavin wrote: Its a fantastic classic...of course! Given the snowpack, it'll probably be in good condition. Nice to have water for a bivy above the moraine. Also nice to have the upper snowfield traverse be fat. The climbing is never hard, rock is great, position outstanding. Route finding and weaving in and around the towers is fun. |
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The Tricky Traverse on the East Ridge is a fun option. Overall an outstanding route. |