Tuolumne climbing.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a nice multi-pitch 5.5-5.7 (or an area with a few good single pitch 5.5-5.7) with a good descent and approach given the current snow conditions for this weekend? Sorry to ask instead of spending time researching,  but unfortunately I am on a business trip right now, so researching  climbs it a bit hard.

Thanks for the help

Bailed Matthes Crest on July 1. Hiked a little past Cathedral but the snow was really slowing us down so we decided to turn back. The approach to Cathedral looks ok but I am not sure about the descend. We also checked Fairview and Lame - Fairview approach was probably ok with some bushwhacking & snow travel but we were worried about the descend. Lame approach was like waterfall+creek. We ended up climbing in 90 degree valley all week.

I just did Cathedral yesterday (7/5/17) and the conditions were great! The climb as well as the descent was totally dry and snow-free. There were quite a few parties up there. Have fun!

Did Cathedral on Tuesday (7/4... 'Merica!)... just to clarify from Alex's post so no one is totally surprised... the descent was not "totally dry and snow free." The 4th slabs off the northwest were clear, but passing back down off the ridge to the east above the climbers trail there was still an ~100 vert ft snowfield. It was soft in the afternoon and easy to plunge step or kick steps into (looked like some folks glissaded, but with no ice axe I abstained).  Could be a little more of an issue if it were to firm up (early or late), but there are plenty of trees to rap off too. 

The approach wasn't too bad. Hard to keep the actual trail with the pockets of snow close to cathedral, but pretty easy to just keep cruising toward the tall bright white piece of granite until standing at the base. 

Really great day out... surprisingly very uncrowded. 

Routes on Stately Pleasure Dome were dry as of 7/3, except South Crack (the right variation exiting the crack to the right would have crossed a bit of a stream).  West Country is quality and is in your range. 

Ryan, how did the area adjacent to the peak look?  I have a backcountry permit starting on 7/13 (just to backpack with the kids) and the wilderness office says everything is snow covered more than a mile in from the road.  Reports from elsewhere appear to contradict one another.  

Also climbed Cathedral on the 4th (felt crowded to me!).  The snow field on the descent is easily circumvented on dry rocks and through some small trees.  The snow is patchy right now in the backcountry -- north-facing aspects and tree-protected areas obviously have more.  Right around Cathedral lakes there's still a blanket of 3-6 feet of snow.  The approach trail to Cathedral peak (in the Budd Creek drainage) is mostly clear, but the upper 3rd or so has 3-foot drifts here and there -- hard-packed so easily passable, so the hardest part is often finding the trail again on the other side.  There is indeed water running in a lot of places.  Snow is melting fast.

Thanks for the recommendations guys. Will probably give West Country or Hermaphrodite Flake a go.

Hey Jared - Wonder if we crossed paths? Being the first time and reading most accounts of massive waits and 5-10 parties on the wall, it was less crowded than I expected at least. 

FatDad - Jared's comments are right on on the patchy nature of the snow in the area. If you were trying to find a snow free area to camp then it would not really be an issue.  

Ryan, thanks for the feedback.  We were planning on camping around Cathedral Lakes the first night though.  3-6 feet of snow sounds like a bit much.  I'll still drag the kids out somewhere, but backcountry in the Meadows may have to wait until a bit later in the summer.  

Fat Dad,

Don't be scared off by the Park service, I wouldn't hesitate to take my girls out there if I had a permit.  The climbers trail approach to Cathedral Peak, with the exception of a 1/2 mile in the woods, is mostly snow free could easily be done in trailrunners.

There is snow, but there is also large areas of exposed ground you should easily be able to find great camping spots.  There are still some large sun cupped snowfields up high, and in the forest there is very consolidated snow mounds.  The valleys by the lakes have more snow. Any open areas are largely snow free. Would be a great adventure!

-Brian

Does anyone know how full the Lee vining canyon camp grounds are currently?  Thinking of heading up tomorrow early morning. Assuming they are pretty full since TM campgrounds are still out of service for first come first served. Thanks in advance. 

Brian, thanks for the beta.  I appreciate it. 

Climbed Fairview last Saturday. Was prepped for an icy approach but there was minimal stepping over snow required, all easy to do in approach shoes.

Regular route and descent were totally dry and beautiful as always.

Anybody know if it's safe to climb the third pillar of Dana yet? Forgot to check out the East end of the park when I was there.

Bruno Beltran wrote:

Climbed Fairview last Saturday. Was prepped for an icy approach but there was minimal stepping over snow required, all easy to do in approach shoes.

Regular route and descent were totally dry and beautiful as always.

Anybody know if it's safe to climb the third pillar of Dana yet? Forgot to check out the East end of the park when I was there.

Bruno, there appeared to be a lot of snow in the approach gully visible from 120. Go do OZ instead :) 

Edit: You could always rap in from the top and leave gear, but avoiding stuck ropes might be tricky.