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Snow in Tetons?

Original Post
Jim Fox · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 50

I'm headed to Jackson the last week of July. I heard that there is still a lot of snow and am wondering if anyone has been up there.

Looking at climbing something easy- either East Ridge of Disappointment or Teewinot

ddriver · · SLC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 2,084
Jim Fox · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 50
rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526
Jim Fox · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 50

Yeah, I'll just take my axe and crampons along. I can leave them in the car in the (unlikely) event that the snow's  melted by then

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,374
Jim Fox wrote:

Yeah, I'll just take my axe and crampons along. I can leave them in the car in the (unlikely) event that the snow's  melted by then

Rgold pretty much nailed it.

For the July 4th weekend, folks were warned here about campgrounds, trails, and roads that might be closed or impassable, including in the Sawtooths.

Stream crossings are adventurous, and the high country snow is coming down fast.

It's in the 100+ range for Boise, mountains have 90° forecasts. Forecast is for it to "cool" down to high 90's, lol. 

The plus side is that it is still relatively green, our super saturated soils cranked out a lot of grass, but that hasn't dried out yet. Short version: fire season hasn't hit, yet, but when it does it might be over the top and run really late.

Oh! Flowers are starting/going later this year, and rather nice. Alpine should be quite photogenic this summer.

Best, Helen

Edit to add: everything that produces pollen is way over the top, late, and going longer than usual, too. Wahoo.

claty · · Cornudella de Montsant, Esp… · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 10

I just got back from the Tetons; still lots of snow. Disappointment is climbable, but OS was basically a mixed route. Did not do Exum as planned because of a storm that came through and dumped more snow. You definitely needed an axe and crampons just to get to the technical climbing but the snow is indeed melting fast. However, based on how much snow there was yesterday, I think taking along the tools would be a good idea. I got good conditions beta at the climbers ranch so that can help you make a game time decision if you take the tools or not. 

Jim Fox · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 50

Weather report looks like it's going to be hot and sunny there, so hopefully snow will be mostly gone by the time I get there.

Planning to fly fish as well but rivers are in runoff mode right now, so have to wait and see

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

Just go climbing! It's the Teton's so expect it all.

Jim Fox · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 50
Greg Gavin wrote:

Just got climbing! It's the Teton's so expect it all.

I've climbed there several times over the years  (always in July or Aug) and conditions have been vastly different every time. Usually pretty dry but this has been a record snow year, so we'll see when I get there

Gunnar Johnson · · Underhill, VT · Joined May 2017 · Points: 86

Just did Teton Pass to Death Canyon and once you get up Phillips Pass there's still tons of snow. Mostly navigating with GPS and map as the trail was under snow. Super fun hike though!

Mike-Mayhem · · North Bend, WA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 70

Conditions are looking a lot like late may right now.. hell the meadows campground is still almost all snow. All south facing climbs are doable right now. Just did the south face of Cloudveil on the 4th and an ice axe wasn't needed after the col. I had a couple friends do the grand too a couple days ago and came back saying the OS was slushy.. although I guess a dude downclimbed it in trail runners.

its been hot as all hell here the last couple days, so if it keeps up like this I'd say you may have a lot more options open up.

most stuff is definitely climbable right now but it would take snow travel.

Jim Fox · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 50
Jaren Watson wrote:

In two weeks, I think Teewinot will be mostly dry. Here's a shot from this morning.

Thanks. Looking a lot better. It's been pretty warm up there, so conditions should continue to improve

Derek DeBruin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,039

Did the south half of the traverse yesterday (lower saddle to Nez Perce). Snow in Garnet Canyon from the meadows up to the headwall. Lower saddle itself was mostly dry and the summer fixed lines could be accessed if desired, though the rock was quite wet. 

Lower exum was free of snow, upper exum itself looked free of snow, though the upper SE face and the ford/stettner looked quite skiable (and indeed we saw pretty fresh ski tracks on middle Teton glacier and a party skiing off Spalding tower).

Snow was almost universally soft, even in the shade and/or coldest part of the day, regardless of aspect. It might be possible to find conditions were crampons were mandatory, but we managed all snow with judicious route finding, a bit of caution, decent timing, and either staying in or avoiding the bootpack as needed (the lower saddle headwal is a stair case right now). The bold among us would be fine with trail runners, trekking poles, and a little agility. Two people I know of ran the OS, I believe prepping for FKT attempts later this summer.

Unless there's another storm (always possible) or a series of overnight freezes, I think the snow will continue to melt quite rapidly and stay soft. In some ways that's a bummer as there's plenty of glissading to be had on descent right now.

Jim Fox · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 50
Andre Cardona · · Seattle WA · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 107

Then you swam across Jenny Lake and road your bike back to Jackson? Jesus dude! 

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

last year the JL ranger told us we did not need  crampons. we brought axes  and the glacier getting to the lower saddle was frozen solid at 7am. super glad to have the ax as the steps had mostly melted out the previous afternoon.  It was bulletproof and a bit gripping without  micro spikes. comming down was softer but still interesting. one of the climbing/ rescue rangers actually fell and had to self arrest..... I thought he was just practiceing self arrest but he was not. it was an actual fall.... 

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

My experience is that snow in the early morning is usually hard enough to make crampons welcome.  Light aluminum ones are fine for this.

Jim Fox · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 50
Gee Double wrote:

No swim, no bike, upper GT dry, E ridge Dis. dry, descend SE ridge, or snow in spoon...

cool, thanks

CTdave · · Victor, Id. · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 221

east ridge of disappointment is dry so is SE Ridge. spoon is well ya see. climbed 7-15-17
CTdave · · Victor, Id. · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 221

For anyone interested in Koven these are conditions 7-15-17
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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