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5.15 on gear?

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422
Senior Hernandez wrote:

Was that the same climb your 5.14 crushing friend couldn't get? Lol, sprayed climbing.

Yep, the third roof on it still hasn't gone...

Paul Ross · · Keswick, Cumbria · Joined Apr 2001 · Points: 22,236

I think more to the point when will a  trad first  ascents be done on sight ground up  below 5.15.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
USBRIT wrote:

I think more to the point when will a  trad first  ascents be done on sight ground up  below 5.15.

As worded, over 100 years ago.

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422
USBRIT wrote:

I think more to the point when will a  trad first  ascents be done on sight ground up  below 5.15.

The vanishing conceivability in 'modern' climbing of the very notion of ground up, onsight trad FA's at any rating is not particularly surprising or unexpected.

Paul Ross · · Keswick, Cumbria · Joined Apr 2001 · Points: 22,236
Healyje wrote:

The vanishing conceivability in 'modern' climbing of the very notion of ground up, onsight trad FA's at any rating is not particularly surprising or unexpected.

Why is that ... in some areas its readily available and up to say 5.12 is being practiced .....but not by many as commitment and risk in rock climbing is becoming  less popular 

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
USBRIT wrote:

Why is that ... in some areas its readily available and up to say 5.12 is being practiced .....but not by many as commitment and risk in rock climbing is becoming  less popular 

A much more obvious and simpler answer is that there just aren't as many opportunities for trad routes above 5.12 and, despite the 5.14s and 5.15s on the planet, the number of climbers who can manage on-site at that level, let alone FA, is extremely small. It's not about avoiding commitment and risk, it's about a lack of potential routes and lack of climbers who can climb trad at that level.

Paul Ross · · Keswick, Cumbria · Joined Apr 2001 · Points: 22,236
Marc801 C wrote:

A much more obvious and simpler answer is that there just aren't as many opportunities for trad routes above 5.12 and, despite the 5.14s and 5.15s on the planet, the number of climbers who can manage on-site at that level, let alone FA, is extremely small. It's not about avoiding commitment and risk, it's about a lack of potential routes and lack of climbers who can climb trad at that level.

Your obviously not travelled... One example  Utah ... Many life times worth of FA potential of all grades ..Agree not many climbers can do on sight Trad FA's at  5.12 ... but I know a few .. In fact I am sure  most 5.14 sport climbers would be pushed to do 5.10/11  trad FA's on sight ground up.. It means placing gear or bolts from free stances .. Todays methods of top rope practice, having all holds chalk marked and pre placed protection is a bit of a joke and far from what was once a activity of commitment. 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252
USBRIT wrote:

Your obviously not travelled... One example  Utah ... Many life times worth of FA potential of all grades .. 

Marc801 C

location: Sandy, Utah

Is this trolling, or are you really that dense?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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