Front Range alpine rock conditions

Michael Arriola wrote:

Any updates on Glacier Gorge area? Approach to Spearhead? 

Saw a photo on here the other day. Seems to be about half melted out to the base. 

No need for axes or crampons for Hallett's anymore the decent and the approach are doable with out. The approach has some snow but has steps kicked in and patches of rocks as well. 

Anybody happen to known recent conditions for the descent from Spearhead?

Kirtis Courkamp wrote:

No need for axes or crampons for Hallett's anymore the decent and the approach are doable with out. The approach has some snow but has steps kicked in and patches of rocks as well. 

This is great to know, thanks! 

Any condition report on the Flying Buttress on Meeker? 

Bill Wright put up a recent report http://billwright510climbing.blogspot.com/2017/07/flying-buttress-with-tom.html

Anyone get up on the diamond this weekend? I'm wondering what the conditions are like in N. Chimney and Broadway ledge. 

Spearhead 7/3. Descent was dry. 

NW Face Chiefshead 7/3. Birds of Fire appeared totally dry.

Wore lightweight approach shoes with no traction, made it but slipped a bit. Brought with one ice tool which came in handy on the soft descent with bits of ice underneath. Could probably just get by with one pole. 

Anyone been up to Hallett?  Coming to the park in a few weeks from the east coast, and hoping to get a shot at the culp.

Pocket Lobster wrote:

Anyone been up to Hallett?  Coming to the park in a few weeks from the east coast, and hoping to get a shot at the culp.

My friend just did it last week, just a little snow on the approach, but the wall is dry

Spearhead approach mostly snow free, only few mellow snow fields. Sneakers + trekking pole was sufficient.

I snapped a few photos today of climbers on the diamond from chasm lake. Got a few of a party on the traverse pitch of the Casual Route and a few more of some people on the left side of the wall. Let me know if it was you and I can email them your way 

anyone know what the approach to the NE buttress of Capitol Peak looks like right now?

Here's the Diamond from yesterday July 10

Massive rock fall on Long's East Face (near Stettner's Ledges) yesterday as a guest and I were approaching the Diamond via North Chimney. The mountain's are still shedding a bit so head's up. 

Andy, any info on north chimney conditions?

Scott, we were on pervertical on the left side, I'd love to have some pics!

Andy.J.Stevens wrote:

Andy, any info on north chimney conditions?

Snow about 250' up the N. Chimney. This is easily passable on rock (avoid the 'schrund down low) on the left side of the N. Chimney. There is a bit of snow remaining in the middle of the chimney but easily avoidable. I was guiding yesterday (using aluminum crampons and light CAMP tool) but I'd imagine most folks would feel OK with microspikes and a light tool to cross Mills Glacier. 

Awesome, so you think just jump onto rock straight away on the left side of the chimney is currently the easiest?