Rock and Ice has gone off the deep end with girth hitches...

Healyje wrote:

Yeah, sure, but again, your body would be completely ripped up under those loads so it's kind of a mute point and irrelevant..

A "moot" point. Not a "mute" point.

Khoi wrote:

Make sure you drill it into their heads that that means using 2 ropes, 2 belay devices, 2 belay biners, 2 belay loops, etc.

Well, I DO lead on two ropes. Is that good enough?

Not that I climb enough for it to matter, but the girthhitch through tieins always annoyed me and seemed to cause more wear. Every time i stand up the girth hitch would uncinch itself, every time I weighted it would cinch tight again.

That article was a waste of space, but at least if anyone comes up to me to tell me about my eminent death from girthhitching off my belay loop, I'll know where they got the idea from.

King Tut wrote:

lol 6 pages?

I'm becoming of the opinion that articles like this, anchor books, the AMGA, etc. have all become hammers for n00bs to beat each other over the head with their version of the "one true faith".

A little knowledge....

So, why, given that Dyneema is so much stronger than nylon, does it break on the 100kg drop test in the video above, and the nylon does not? 

Mark Hudon wrote:

So, why, given that Dyneema is so much stronger than nylon, does it break on the 100kg drop test in the video above, and the nylon does not? 

Nylon stretches more and absorbs the force better.

http://www.rockandice.com/climb-safe/spectra-versus-nylon

Andrew Krajnik wrote:

I've always heard that multiple partners is a good thing... if you can swing it.

I see what you did there.

Thanks for the link.

Mark Hudon wrote:

Thanks for the link.

Also, Dyneema slings are usually not stronger than nylon slings. UHMWPE (Dyneema) is a stronger material than nylon, but they use less material to make the sling so in the end both Dyneema and nylon slings are often rated at or around 22kN.

20 kN wrote:

Also, Dyneema slings are usually not stronger than nylon slings. UHMWPE (Dyneema) is a stronger material than nylon, but they use less material to make the sling so in the end both Dyneema and nylon slings are often rated at or around 22kN.

However, in terms of available PAS, the dyneema Metolius PAS is rated at 22kn, where the nylon Sterlin Chain Reactor is rated at 14kn.

The reason the nylon doesn't have to be as strong is because given the same fall, the nylon will produce a lower peak load than the dyneema. Sort of like dynamic vs static rope.

n00b wrote:

I see what you did there.

I'm so glad someone caught that!

Brian L. wrote:

However, in terms of available PAS, the dyneema Metolius PAS is rated at 22kn, where the nylon Sterlin Chain Reactor is rated at 14kn.

The reason the nylon doesn't have to be as strong is because given the same fall, the nylon will produce a lower peak load than the dyneema. Sort of like dynamic vs static rope.

DMM has some good numbers at http://dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/how-to-break-nylon-dyneema-slings/

For example, a 30cm fall onto a 30cm sling produced forces of 16.4kn for a 11mm Dyneema and 10.6 kn for 16mm nylon.

Remember all of DMM's testing was with a rigid weight.

Rock and ice also posted ECD episode where Brette Harrington, while being employed as a guide, was doing this lol

I'll start worrying about my belay loop wearing out when I've done as much climbing as Todd Skinner had done, which at my current rate will be around the year 2090.