|
Tombo
·
Jun 22, 2017
·
Boulder
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 410
Just about any 5.9 in Eldorado may feel like a 5.10 compared to a sport route and the gear will often be finicky compared to many areas. Star Wars at 5.8 is great with easy pro and in the shade this time of year for most of the day. Peanuts is good. West Ridge as mentioned and Reggae. Calypso start is the best approach to Reggae but the gear is funky at the crux. Gonzo and V3 on Cadillac Crag. The Bastille Crack just be careful till you get gear in the crack at the start, Blind Faith which is wicked hard relative to a most similarly graded sport climbs but takes good and bigger gear. Washington Irving on the West Ridge, Chianti, Positively 4th Street. Great Zot to Rewritten, the second pitch is a bit run out but pretty easy, you can avoid by climbing up right to the ledge and back left on the Red Ledge (careful of loose rock and your rope on the ledge) climb Rubuffat's Arete as second to last pitch. Levin's guide!!!!
|
|
Rusty Shackleford
·
Jun 22, 2017
·
Boulder County aka The Cent…
· Joined Apr 2014
· Points: 0
pfwein wrote:Now to contradict myself slightly and made a specific recommendation--Gambit is a fun route in a cool setting that has generally good gear. Shirttail Peak is closed for Raptor nesting! My .02 is to start on the Wind Ridge, do the Bastille crack, then Worksupp. Maybe Blind Faith as you walk down from the Bastille Crack? You'll get a good day out of it and stay in the shade for most of the day. Anything you try and do on the Redgarden or West Ridge/Rincon will get sunbaked so get out early to avoid the sun and potential crowding. If I had to suggest one route tho, I'd say Rewritten via the Great Zot start is not to be missed. The walk off takes you right by Darkness 'till Dawn (first pitch 5.10a) which is a truely awesome climb and stays shaded nearly all day. Cheers!
|
|
Frazer
·
Jun 23, 2017
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2014
· Points: 0
Kiki Nicole wrote:So I can lead in newer areas on sport 5.10 (with falls... sometimes its not too pretty!) what would you recommend in eldo for leading and following with my given experience...? To reference the other posts above... Wind Ridge is a good starting point (right from the car). If you are leading 5.10 sport I probably wouldn't try to jump on anything over 5.8 (to start). From Wind Ridge you might go straight to the West Ridge and go up to Mesca-Line and then (as stated in other posts) do Long John Wall (Break on Through P1... 100% classic)... If you make a day of West Ridge climbs there are a number of other fun climbs around Mesca-line to try... Dr. Michael Solar is short but fun with nice gear. If you are "bored" with easier climbing you can get a nice pump on Positively Fourth Street or P1 of Pony Express. The West Ridge makes for a nice day of cragging. Head up the hill to Rincon area (someone earlier I think mentioned Over and Out, you can do P1 of this and P2 of Over the HIll for one of the coolest 5.9 finger crack pitches (I think) in the area) Keeping with the theme. Eldo is the real deal... just be safe (helmet) and feel it out. You won't be bored.
|
|
Greg D
·
Jun 23, 2017
·
Here
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 883
Nicole, You haven't really provided much info for us to work with. Your home page says you lead 5.6 trad, which means almost all of the suggestions may be challenging for you. But, this is very hard to judge. Routes in Eldo are hard to compare to sport climbing. And, yuou have provided almost nothing regarding your partner. This would be helpful. If she is ok on 10 trad, then Green Spur to Rewriten might be good for you guys to swap leads. Green Spur has some zesty 5.9. Rewritten has some 5.5 and 5.6 pitches. And, it is a more direct line than starting on Rewritten. Again, this is a guess based on the little info you provided. Also, when are you going? What time of day? Most of the routes mentioned face southwest. So, this time of year, lots of Sun after after 11am. If you are an early riser, these routes can be quite pleasant even on hot days if you start early and finish early. West side of the Bastille has shade till noon, the north side and Peanuts till 3ish. If you provide more info about you and your partner, you will get more useful feedback. Get Levin's guide. Bring it with you. It can take a while to find your way.
|
|
Joshua Hawkins
·
Jun 23, 2017
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2017
· Points: 0
Bastille Crack – 5 pitches – 5.7 2. Rewritten – 6 pitches – 5.7 we did this when you were here. 3. Long John Wall – 4 pitches – 5.8 4. Ruper – 6 pitches – 5.8+ 5. Yellow Spur – 6 pitches – 5.9+ 6. Anthill Direct – 5.9- R - 5 pitches 7. Gambit – 5.8 – 5 pitches – this puts you on the top of all peaks in Eldo
|
|
trice Rice
·
Jun 23, 2017
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2014
· Points: 0
If you are only leading 5.10 sport I would say that (and i'm not trying to be mean but realistic) you have little to no chance on leading anything 5.9 and above. Eldo 5.9's are consistently harder than almost any 5.10 sport climb I have been on in Boulder canyon and often require finicky gear placements and being comfortable over your gear. I would stick with 5.8's or even start with some 5.7's and 6's. Wind ridge would be a great start to introduce you to what eldo 5.6 is like. Also calypso is pretty heads up for 5.6. Reggae also on wind ridge is a great intro into a pretty easy eldo 5.8 Works sup 1st pitch would be a good steep 5.8 that you need to be confident to do. If you are following a stronger climber then I highly suggest getting on the yellow spur. At 5.9ish, it is one of the finest lines in the canyon and will allow you to get to one of the best summits and some of the best exposure.
|
|
Daniel Joder
·
Jun 23, 2017
·
Barcelona, ES
· Joined Nov 2015
· Points: 0
To emphasize what others are saying...I am starting to get consistent in leading 5.10a/b sport in Boulder Canyon and Clear Creek (on sight), but currently limit myself to leading 5.7-5.8 max in Eldo, although I will follow harder. So, starting out on Breezy and Wind Ridge might be a good plan. You can always dial it up if that stuff is too easy for you (it is still wonderful climbing!)...but climbing into trouble on something harder with difficult pro would be no fun.
|
|
Michael Hodges
·
Jun 23, 2017
·
Tennessee
· Joined Jan 2014
· Points: 30
I think the bomb to West overhang would be perfect for you.(On the wind tower) 1st pitch is 5.4 to a large ledge, takes good gear, and the end pitch is 5.7 with good gear, a roof with massive jugs and a 2 bolt anchor. Gear is straight forward throughout and both pitches are enjoyable. I really don't think there is a more straight forward easy route in eldo.
|