3-person multi-pitch alt method
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For following on a single strand of half rope the only concern I have is If the rope is running over a jagged edge that would give me pause even with a single. For leading it's jagged edge and increased rope stretch. Not even remotely worried about the rope breaking. |
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Ryan M Moore wrote: Half ropes do not actually stretch more than a single, the blanket statement isn't true. Look at the specs of the individual rope you plan to use. I've taken lead falls on one strand of Mammut Phoenix and it's a hard catch. For ledgy alpine terrain I intend it for that's perfect. Mammut Eternity 9.8mm has 6.8% static and 30% dynamic elongation Beal booster 9.7 single has 9.7% static and 38% dynamic elongation Maxim Platinum 9.8 has ≤ 10% static and ≤ 40% dynamic elongation |
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Are those elongation measurements using the same test? I always thought half rope specs were for 55kg weight or is that just the impact? |
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Ryan M Moore wrote: Good question. I thought the weight was only for impact measurement, but I could be wrong. |
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The half-rope dynamic elongations are for a 55 kg weight. I don't know about the static ones offhand. EDIT: Static elongation for both singles and halfs is computed using an 80 kg weight. UIAA standards limit it to 10% for single ropes and 12% for one strand of a half rope. |
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Brian, I don't live far from you, I climb multi pitch all over around here. Have been up walls in parties of as many as six. If you ever want to get together, I'll show you first hand a variety of ways. Feel free to drop me a message any time. |
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mbk wrote: That Mike Barter video reiterates what Chauvin and Caoppollilo said: "End-roping is for 5.6 and under. For 5.7 and up consider half ropes." |
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it's kind of silly to give an arbitrary grade at which the technique is applicable/non-applicable. for some parties it wouldn't be appropriate at any grade. for some parties it could be appropriate for much harder grades. for some routes it probably wouldn't be appropriate for anybody due to the layout of the route, or rock quality, or whatever of the route. is it me or is the description of end-roping more complicated than it should be? in particular, it seems like the transition method they describe is kind of wonky. |
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slim wrote: I agree. I like the language used by C&C to describe their criteria.
Yes, if you take this definition of "wonky": https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/wonky characteristic of, relating to, or suggestive of a wonk: such as a : preoccupied with arcane details or procedures in a specialized field She can get wonky about the economy when she wants to, but what sets her apart is her ability to tell a coherent, populist story about it in a way that other members of her party are either unwilling or unable to do. — Rebecca Traister b : used by or appealing to wonks… one of those politicians who actually find pleasure in the often-wonky details of public policy. — John Powers Since the C&C book is, literally, The Mountain Guide Manual, I think "wonky" is exactly how it should be. Wonky is certainly what I was hoping for when I bought it. :-) |
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Method ive used is you belay the second as normal..the second trails a second rope and clips it into the necessary pro. Then you fix the trail line and have the 3rd person tr solo. Then the second can start leading the next pitch immediately |
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The method I use involves saving a lot of weight and time and basically involves never climbing with a third climber. The secret is my personality. |