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Large radius locking carabiners

Original Post
Gilman Coryell · · Mount Vernon, ME · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

What are the largest radius lockers out there these days?

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
Gilman Coryell · · Mount Vernon, ME · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

That'll do. A bit worried about getting tagged by that thing as it dangles from my belay loop though.

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

Metolius element, sterling falcon, camp picto are all good roundstock HMS biners and between the three covey pretty much all sizes of lockers except for super huge like the boa. 

They all work well, although the metolius element takes a lot of turns to screw the lock shut 

Matt Westlake · · Durham, NC · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 662

Maybe a bit of thread drift but the element has double the number of turns (8 vs 4 I believe) and is a bit smaller size but fatter bar. According to Metolius the extra turns of the gate are to provide smoother action and keep dirt out. My partner also thought it was a nice safety feature for fixed lines getting jugged on in that it'd prevent the gate from rubbing and potentially getting unlocked through repeated motion. When I bought my element biners (2010) Metolius said they may change the pitch of the threads to reduce the number of turns in future production but I haven't looked at the newer ones to see if this came to pass. At first I was a bit put off by it but have come to like it as the round bar feeds very smoothly. I've also got a number of DMMs that I like, smooth bar and liquid smooth gate action. One of the more important features I've come to find is a strong screw gate barrel - if it's too weak it can crushed by pressure on the rock and oval, making it hard to turn and more susceptible to dirt getting in.  I had a couple of crap Omega Pacific lockers that got ovaled like this and eventually the gate on one could be slid up and down freely as the screw threads had been stripped completely. RETIRED those guys... 

Andrew Krajnik · · Plainfield, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 1,739
Jim Titt wrote:

Holy massive biner, Batman!

"weighs as much as 10 regular carabiners, and is almost twice as strong!"

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651
eli poss wrote: 

They all work well, although the metolius element takes a lot of turns to screw the lock shut 

That bothered me so much that I quit using my element for belaying seconds with minimal wear. Also to add to your list, Petzl is still making a round stock original attache, marketed as the "HERA" in a light blue. 

Andy R · · MA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 45

Petzl William is pretty big can put in 2 clove hitches no problem

Forthright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 110
Gilman Coryell wrote:

That'll do. A bit worried about getting tagged by that thing as it dangles from my belay loop though.

Letting stuff dangle off your belay loop is a gumbie/washed up grumpy old dude move

ANGUS WIESSNER · · Denver Colorad · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,638

Rock  exotica pirate locker 

Orca locker pirate 

Screw gate pirate 

It's my favorite locking carabiner 

Gate opens at angle so you can get it on more things. Great for canyoneering as sand never gunks up the screw gate. Water friendly fairly light and love the Skull and crossbones if you are not locked. More twists to lock than your average locker too.

Been using the pirate along time never had any issues that I have experienced with other locking carabiner brands. Just picked up an orca technology locker for my new gri gri plus fits perfect with it. Better than any Petzl carabiner even the attache I know I own one of every kind of Petzl locking carabiner. 

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525
Nick Drake wrote:

That bothered me so much that I quit using my element for belaying seconds with minimal wear. Also to add to your list, Petzl is still making a round stock original attache, marketed as the "HERA" in a light blue. 

Ah, I thought those hera biners were a special edition thing that was temporary. Good to know their still making them because they were one of the best lockers for the alpine smart

Gilman Coryell · · Mount Vernon, ME · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65
NorCalNomad wrote:

Letting stuff dangle off your belay loop is a gumbie/washed up grumpy old dude move

What? I like to keep as much stuff there as possible.

David Deville · · Fayetteville, AR · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 90
eli poss wrote:

although the metolius element takes a lot of turns to screw the lock shut 

I was out doing some multi-pitch with another couple when one of them started to have a bit of a panic attack near the top (long traverse with some fall potential for the second + a lot of exposure). Their partner (after leading the pitch) decided to pull their rope and rap rescue the second. I was still at the anchor with the second and offered an extra metolius element for clipping in before untying from the rope. The sheer number of turns (and time taken locking the gate) actually got them to calm down a good bit and they said "wow, this feels really safe, I like these". It was amusing since they sort of piss me off too, but it was definitely effective in calming down the climber! 

Brian L. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 90
eli poss wrote:

Ah, I thought those hera biners were a special edition thing that was temporary. Good to know their still making them because they were one of the best lockers for the alpine smart

Cost for cost the Element is almost half the price ($9.95 vs $16.95 at REI). Is there something I am missing that makes the HERA better? Besides the screwgate turns i suppose... (which I admit doesn't bother me)

Noah Yetter · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 105

DMM Rhino

Wild Country Ascent & Ascent Lite

Salewa makes (or brands) a couple that aren't commonly available in the US...

I think the solid-bar blue Petzl Attaches are all new-old-stock and will be gone soon. Someone posted a picture of an updated HERA-branded blue Attache 3D a while back.

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 5

Petzl Attache is my go to for thick round stock carabiners. Thick and sturdy, but not crazy heavy. 

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525
Brian L. wrote:

Cost for cost the Element is almost half the price ($9.95 vs $16.95 at REI). Is there something I am missing that makes the HERA better? Besides the screwgate turns i suppose... (which I admit doesn't bother me)

I might just be crazy but the old attaches felt slightly better worth handling because I think were ever so slightly larger. Dunno if I would pay double the price, I got mine for like $5 at the local gear exchange

People actually stockpiled them when they found out it was being replaced by the new attache so clearly they were a favorite for many. Could just be a cult following, though

Tristan Bradford · · Boulder, CO · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 2,634
Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651
Brian L. wrote:

Cost for cost the Element is almost half the price ($9.95 vs $16.95 at REI). Is there something I am missing that makes the HERA better? Besides the screwgate turns i suppose... (which I admit doesn't bother me)

Little red indicator on the gate. Not just the number of turns, but ease of spinning the gate. I can flick the gate on a petzl biner and have it spin nearly to full lock. Not a huge deal, but on a grade IV route little stuff like that is nice. 

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
Andrew Krajnik wrote:

Holy massive biner, Batman!

"weighs as much as 10 regular carabiners, and is almost twice as strong!"

They are used in rope access. They are pretty common actually and several companies make them.

here are some:

https://www.patrollersupply.com/gear/category_64.asp

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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