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New Spice 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: M. Varlotta
Page Views: 93
Submitted By: Mack Brickley on May 30, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Private Land MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A great addition to breakneck! Pumpy and juggy with a fun crux.

Location 

far side of the lower slabs. Right-most climb.

Protection 

3-4 bolts to chains


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By Michael P
From: Pittsburgh
Jun 13, 2017

MikeV named the two harder routes 'Old Spice' and 'New Spice'.
I think this one is 'New Spice'. The 5.6 was first led/named by his daughter but I forget the name.
By Nicole Thompson
Oct 12, 2017

There are two lines of bolts that share the same anchor. Didn't realize that and two people from my group went up at the same time! The left (middle bolt line) is slightly easier than the right. The crux of the right line is at the 2nd bolt. A secret undercling is your savior! Easier climbing at the top through huecos and another crux at the anchor. Don't fall between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, it's pretty run out.

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