Chamonix - good PD climbs?

Wonderful list of climbs and climbing information here. I'm coming to Chamonix between 6-15 of July, and am looking for solid climbing partners. Since I am only there for a short period of time, I am hoping I can find someone here. I would love to do some alpine rock routes, as well as some strong sports workouts. Have never climbed in Chamonix properly, so don't know how the grades will feel like, but could probably safely say I can lead 5.9 trad and low 5.11s sport at the moment. Can follow harder routes. 

I am a mountain runner, so am quick on the hiking parts, and can do long days. 

Would anyone be keen to climb with me? 

Note that many of the better alpine rock climbs around Chamonix require two ropes for descent.
And require solid 5.10 Trad leading.
. . . (actually the more popular routes are mixed Trad -- with bolts for the slab sections and for belay and rappel anchors -- but need to carry and place Trad gear in the crack sections).

Good alpine rock routes less than 5.10 Trad likely to be crowded in July.

Ken

Don't want to hijack the thread but was hoping to ask a couple Chamonix questions.  I have been looking at camptocamp.com and have been getting some pretty good information but I have noticed that July-August seem like the prime time for climbing.

I'll be in town May 30-June 18 with the hope of doing some alpine mixed ice and rock routes. I am looking at things like Chere Couloir and pellisier gully but am unsure of what general conditions should be like this time of year. I am flexible so I was wondering if this would be a good destination this time of year or if I should adjust?

Also, I will be without a car and looking to camp somewhere, can anyone recommend any particular place?  It seems like a lot of places don't open until mid June, (at least close to town)

Anyway, thanks for the help

Also, I think I found this link on another thread but it has been pretty helpful for looking up routes via an organized spreadsheet with links.

http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/funalps/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/Happy_Alpine-1.pdf

And another helpful link:

http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/funalps/?fdx_switcher=true

Keeghan O'Brien wrote:
> I have noticed that July-August seem like the prime time for climbing

Nowadays with warming, and with glaciers receding and breaking up, maybe June is a better bet.

The first pitch of the Chere Couloir was not touching down back in April, not sure how it is these days, but I have climbed it in June previous years

http://www.chamoniarde.com/?page_id=1863&lang=en

You're probably fine. Chere is basically always in. Most modern mixed routes most likely won't be in the best of shape though, these seem to get done in the fall/spring, not summer. But classic mixed climbs, snow climbs and ridge climbs should all be in good shape in June. Later in the summer the snow climbs and ridges melt out. I've only been there in July, August and September, but I recall the snow climbs and ridges always being very steep in July compared to what was advertised, and totally out of condition by late August/early September, so they're probably in good shape in May/June. Don't know how rock climbs will be. Probably good even up high, but if not there will be plenty of good alpine rock climbing at lower elevations.

Get a copy of Philippe Batoux's book. Each route has its best seasons listed. See what's listed for Spring/Summer climbs (as opposed to just plain "summer" climbs), and see if those kinds of routes tempt you.

Keeghan O'Brien wrote:

Don't want to hijack the thread but was hoping to ask a couple Chamonix questions.  I have been looking at camptocamp.com and have been getting some pretty good information but I have noticed that July-August seem like the prime time for climbing.

I'll be in town May 30-June 18 with the hope of doing some alpine mixed ice and rock routes. I am looking at things like Chere Couloir and pellisier gully but am unsure of what general conditions should be like this time of year. I am flexible so I was wondering if this would be a good destination this time of year or if I should adjust?

Keeghan O'Brien wrote:

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Don't want to hijack the thread but was hoping to ask a couple Chamonix questions.  I have been looking at camptocamp.com and have been getting some pretty good information but I have noticed that July-August seem like the prime time for climbing.

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I'll be in town May 30-June 18 with the hope of doing some alpine mixed ice and rock routes. I am looking at things like Chere Couloir and pellisier gully but am unsure of what general conditions should be like this time of year. I am flexible so I was wondering if this would be a good destination this time of year or if I should adjust?

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Also, I will be without a car and looking to camp somewhere, can anyone recommend any particular place?  It seems like a lot of places don't open until mid June, (at least close to town)

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Anyway, thanks for the help

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Keep in touch, I would be around mid June there, hit me up here for contact via phone

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Rgds

T

Anyone have updates on conditions lately? The earlier reports were quite useful...

pjc30943 wrote:

Anyone have updates on conditions lately? The earlier reports were quite useful...

Chere Couloir is in.  Did Pellisier gully yesterday which was very dry, mostly drytooling, and a lot of loose stuff coming down.  Word on the street is that there is alot of rockfall, even on north faces, as its been pretty warm.   This is my first trip to Cham so that could be the norm forJune.  We came looking for ice and mixed but have been told its a bit late/warm for that.  

The alpine rock climbs look excellent and seem to be getting climbed quite often, especially south faces. 

Pretty easy glacier travel at the moment, people still skiing as we had a good dump of snow a few days ago.    

As far as I know, things look pretty good and you can always find something to do with some flexibility.  We had 3 rain days in a row and climbed every one of them at an overhanging drytool crag in Le fayet.  

Feel free to hit me up with any questions.  My email is keeghanobrien at gmail, not checking MP very often

Hiked / scrambled this afternoon out from Refuge de l'Envers (elev 2500m) to the Montenvers railroad station (1800m), I guess mostly on NorthEast aspects.

Only a few patches of seasonal snow to cross, but lots of melt-water flowing across the trail.

Lower Mer de Glace glacier free from seasonal snow. Permanent ice surface already had lots embedded little rocks, so pretty good traction without crampons.

Approaches to the (great) multi-pitch routes _above_ the Refuge had lots of seasonal snow. Tho not freezing overnight, crampons useful in the morning, at least for efficiency on the steep sections.

Ken

In response to weather forecasts in Cham/Mt. Blanc Massif I check three different ones:

1. Chamonix-Meteo http://chamonix-meteo.com/chamonix-mont-blanc/weather/forecast/morning/5_days_weather_forecast.php

2. http://www.chamonix.com/weather,11,en.html

3. And an app I downloaded called MeteoSwiss (look for it in the app store...its free)

Hope that helps!