Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 970 total · 4/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 16, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

An interesting start leads to a an easy wide crack. The start is an undercling that leads to a length of liebacking, along good rock. It then has the odd move as you work from one wide crack to another. Finally, after you pass a slung tree and horn, you come to a divergence: a really steep offwidth/squeeze on the right or an easy wide crack to the left. The climb goes left. I tried right but the rock was rotten.

All in all a nice lower sequence followed by an easy upper sequence.

WARNING !! One last thing, after the lieback sequence, the next sequence involves a crack with a thin death flake. Beware. Helmets are advised.

Location Suggest change

Probably the easiest approach is to climb up the tree filled gully/flake right of Callitwhatyouplease, and you will end up at the base. The crack that climbs alongside the vertical wall on the left is Chicken Chickenhead, and The Waltz climbs the next crack to the right, going left of the obvious chimney, Tenderloin. Rappel off a tree at the top of Tenderloin.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack, some runners and a few large pieces (hexes or large cams) for the wide sections... or you could not protect those certain areas. Set up your own anchor up top, so bring that gear also.

Photos

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