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Waltz, The
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 1.5 from 17 votes
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 970 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Nathan Fisher on Apr 16, 2006 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
An interesting start leads to a an easy wide crack. The start is an undercling that leads to a length of liebacking, along good rock. It then has the odd move as you work from one wide crack to another. Finally, after you pass a slung tree and horn, you come to a divergence: a really steep offwidth/squeeze on the right or an easy wide crack to the left. The climb goes left. I tried right but the rock was rotten.
All in all a nice lower sequence followed by an easy upper sequence.
WARNING !! One last thing, after the lieback sequence, the next sequence involves a crack with a thin death flake. Beware. Helmets are advised.
All in all a nice lower sequence followed by an easy upper sequence.
WARNING !! One last thing, after the lieback sequence, the next sequence involves a crack with a thin death flake. Beware. Helmets are advised.
Location
Probably the easiest approach is to climb up the tree filled gully/flake right of Callitwhatyouplease, and you will end up at the base. The crack that climbs alongside the vertical wall on the left is Chicken Chickenhead, and The Waltz climbs the next crack to the right, going left of the obvious chimney, Tenderloin. Rappel off a tree at the top of Tenderloin.
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