Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in South Face
|
A Spirit of Adventure T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Granite Pancakes & Scrambled Eggs T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
|
Peanut Brittle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Raspberry Bypass T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Strawberry Overpass T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Gene Drake, H. Haymond 1969 |
| Page Views: | 1,833 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Ian Leader on Nov 9, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
From the main wall, it's obvious that there should be a route on the far left of the Hogs Back S. face. The cracks and slabs are messy, but surely it will go - we'll be up and down quickly and back in time for tea...
The first pitch leads up and slightly right before the problem starts to appear. The flake / crack system leading to the obvious anchor vibrates ever so slightly when you hit it. Some bits are worse than others. There's just enough decent places to put pro, and you continue up and left onto the flake curving up to a small roof, where you there's enough cracks to feel good about building an anchor.
From here, go slightly left, and up a small flared crack. There seems to be no easy way out here, but as the crack runs out, you can shuffle left over the ridge (great feeling of stepping into the unknown!) to find some bulbous features and an easy scramble up to the top, past a dead tree bent over in the shape of a Japanese Tori (watch out for rope drag here).
Worth climbing? Sure, but only if you like easy climbs on vibrating flakes; mostly it was fun because it was new and unknown. Not found in any guide book or on the web, so let me know if it has a pre-existing name / FA date.
The first pitch leads up and slightly right before the problem starts to appear. The flake / crack system leading to the obvious anchor vibrates ever so slightly when you hit it. Some bits are worse than others. There's just enough decent places to put pro, and you continue up and left onto the flake curving up to a small roof, where you there's enough cracks to feel good about building an anchor.
From here, go slightly left, and up a small flared crack. There seems to be no easy way out here, but as the crack runs out, you can shuffle left over the ridge (great feeling of stepping into the unknown!) to find some bulbous features and an easy scramble up to the top, past a dead tree bent over in the shape of a Japanese Tori (watch out for rope drag here).
Worth climbing? Sure, but only if you like easy climbs on vibrating flakes; mostly it was fun because it was new and unknown. Not found in any guide book or on the web, so let me know if it has a pre-existing name / FA date.
5 Comments