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Routes in Flaming Rock
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Baby Eyes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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City Girls S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Firewater S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Puzzle Wall (AKA: Flaven Face in Bingham's Vol 1 C.O.R. Guide. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Quest for Fire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Radachello T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Raindance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Reservations T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Smoke Signal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tail Feather S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tither's Jam T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Tribal Boundaries S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Warrior Eyes TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Dave Bingham (with Hannah North & Mike Engle) |
| Page Views: | 2,199 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Boissal . on Sep 12, 2016 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
This route appears to be the now-bolted top-rope Dave Bingham mentions here.
It takes a direct line which stops at its own anchor about 10' below the top of P1 of Raindance, (although the last bit of slab to the Raindance anchor is worth climbing).
Scamper up a steepish shallow dihedral with crumbly quartz chunks to interesting moves on good patina then get your slab game on and friction up a pillar to the right of a tree, using the edge of said pillar to keep the climbing moderate.
It takes a direct line which stops at its own anchor about 10' below the top of P1 of Raindance, (although the last bit of slab to the Raindance anchor is worth climbing).
Scamper up a steepish shallow dihedral with crumbly quartz chunks to interesting moves on good patina then get your slab game on and friction up a pillar to the right of a tree, using the edge of said pillar to keep the climbing moderate.
Protection
Bolts (I want to say 7 or 8) to an independent bolted anchor below the top of P1 of Raindance.
A 70 m works to reach and lower from the anchor on top of the first pitch of Raindance, adding a bit of fun climbing. Not sure how a 60 m would work from there, definitely OK from the lower anchor though.
A 70 m works to reach and lower from the anchor on top of the first pitch of Raindance, adding a bit of fun climbing. Not sure how a 60 m would work from there, definitely OK from the lower anchor though.
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