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Routes in The Thumb Nail
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Cuticle Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Lightly Seasoned T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Cass Bindrup, Charles Nolt |
| Page Views: | 789 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Cass Bindrup on Apr 25, 2017 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
P1: Starts up the right facing corner/dihedral, to the ledge holding the large, cracked right-leaning block. Reach high or climb overhung hands and protect high up in the crack on the right side of the pilar (squeezes down from hands .3s)pull around the pilar on some crystals and slab out onto the face. A series of unprotected slab moves constitute a no fall zone. Be sure to protect for your second above the slab and step right around the flake into the chimney to reach the anchors.
P2: Climb the hand,fist squeeze chimney. Requires some groveling. Summit rolls off the flat build belay in wide crack systems. Rap anchors located up and right. Slung chicken-head and 1 bolt. Single rap to ground. 60 or 70.
P2: Climb the hand,fist squeeze chimney. Requires some groveling. Summit rolls off the flat build belay in wide crack systems. Rap anchors located up and right. Slung chicken-head and 1 bolt. Single rap to ground. 60 or 70.
Location
Located on the Thumbnail-large spherical buttress just above (Northwest) the summit pitch of the Thumb. Approach via the thumb. Once the summit pitch is reached scramble uphill and skirt the east side of the feature until the obvious leaning A-frame block. Alternate approach via plumbline gully involves some 5th class scrambling.
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