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Japanese Pixelated Genitals
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.8 from 12 votes
Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | FFA: Shino Jomoto |
Page Views: | 1,747 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | Brandon Gottung on Jan 7, 2016 |
Admins: | Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball |
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Description
Japanese Pixelated Genitals is a fun mix of hand-jamming and steep jug-hauling. As long as you avoid rope-drag, this pitch is phenomenal.
Start with a easy climbing up to a leftward traverse below the roof to the prominent left-facing handcrack corner, out a second roof and up to the dead horizontal final roof. The anchors are just past the lip.
This route generally requires a lead, lower and follow tactic since cleaning it would be difficult and rough on the rope.
There is a second anchor above on a ledge that is used to access the second pitch (2nd pitch is 5.12).
Start with a easy climbing up to a leftward traverse below the roof to the prominent left-facing handcrack corner, out a second roof and up to the dead horizontal final roof. The anchors are just past the lip.
This route generally requires a lead, lower and follow tactic since cleaning it would be difficult and rough on the rope.
There is a second anchor above on a ledge that is used to access the second pitch (2nd pitch is 5.12).
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