JT your favorite routes up to 5.9!

Hi all, I'm heading out to JT. Want to hear you all talk about your favorite leads up to 5.9!!! Want to make a quick tick list!

Do you have one of the guidebooks? The star systems are good for determining quality climbs.

popes crack, walk on the wild side, tumbling rainbow, sail away, dazed and confused, dappled mare

Hi, to clarify, I climb JT but just breaking into leading 5.9, did moosedog a few weeks back. I just love hearing the locals favorites to add something to my list! What's more fun than sharing our favorite routes with other climbers!? Tumbling rainbow, dappled mare and right on are on my potential list for this trip. Possibly. Northwest overhang and cryptic if they aren't packed!!! It's gonna be 80 degrees, what's in the shade?? 

also, i LOVED The FLake

Chris Adams wrote:

Hi, to clarify, I climb JT but just breaking into leading 5.9, did moosedog a few weeks back. I just love hearing the locals favorites to add something to my list! What's more fun than sharing our favorite routes with other climbers!? Tumbling rainbow, dappled mare and right on are on my potential list for this trip. Possibly. Northwest overhang and cryptic if they aren't packed!!! It's gonna be 80 degrees, what's in the shade?? 

moosedog was kind of a one move wonder in my opinion, but a fun feature to top out on...

Catch a Falling Star is pretty stinkin' fun and you can bust it out super quick as it is right next to the parking lot. Could be a good alternative to Cryptic if it is crowded.

The guidebooks also provide sun/shade information.

Here's a list of a few I have enjoyed. I also added sphincter-quits which might not be the best for breaking into the 5.9's but it is one of my favorites and you should do it some day. 

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/overseer/105722227

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado-crack/105724777

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/sphincter-quits/105722488

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/high-strung/105724099

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/bambi-meets-godzilla/105725719

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/dogleg/105722170

For what it's worth (not much)--I didn't think Cryptic was anything special. But if you can get to the top of the Headstone at night, it's a neat little place to watch the stars. 

Obviously tons of great climbs in J-tree under 5.9, but I'd say Sail Away is my favorite.  A few years ago I climbed it every morning for almost 3 weeks straight! 

Just did my first 5.9 lead in Josh recently, Popular Mechanics. Beautiful climb and stays shady! It has some committing moves but after each one there's a great foot stance for gear placement.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/popular-mechanics/105723478

Sail Away! So many areas to check out! Definitely stay with the 3 and 4 star routes if its your first visit. Enjoy the your trip, so Jealous!!

Not bad suggestions from most.  A few comments.

If it's hot, the White Cliffs of Dover is good.  If it's not, it'll be cold.  Ace of Spades is another good 5.9 out there as well.  You can try Baskerville Right (.10a) and Tossed Greens (also .10a) on the way.

Overseer is great.  If you're there, you can try Prepackaged, which used to be rated 5.9 but has been bumped up to .10a.  

I like Sphincter Quits, though some feel it's heady getting established in the thin crack part way up.  Need lots of thin pro and know how to place it well.

Popular Mechanics and Cryptic are great (though the latter is short, but with good moves).

Dazed and Confused is terrific.  My Laundry is good, though it can get plastered with bird poop.

Dappled Mare is only 5.8, but good fun.  

North Overhang is fun with good exposure.  Just a couple of hard moves but don't blow them.  

Have fun 

You guys have me frothing!!! Moosedoggy was for sure a one move wonder. 

Invisibility Lessons at Split Rocks. 

+1 on Steve_Sil and Fatdads lists

Illusion dweller is 5.9. Do it. 

thx guys! now my list will last me the rest of the year... :) Hopefully see some of you out there in the park! I'll be the guy humping his way up tumbling rainbow!!!

Fat Dad wrote:

Not bad suggestions from most.  A few comments.

If it's hot, the White Cliffs of Dover is good.  If it's not, it'll be cold.  Ace of Spades is another good 5.9 out there as well.  You can try Baskerville Right (.10a) and Tossed Greens (also .10a) on the way.

Overseer is great.  If you're there, you can try Prepackaged, which used to be rated 5.9 but has been bumped up to .10a.  

I like Sphincter Quits, though some feel it's heady getting established in the thin crack part way up.  Need lots of thin pro and know how to place it well.

Popular Mechanics and Cryptic are great (though the latter is short, but with good moves).

Dazed and Confused is terrific.  My Laundry is good, though it can get plastered with bird poop.

Dappled Mare is only 5.8, but good fun.  

North Overhang is fun with good exposure.  Just a couple of hard moves but don't blow them.  

OP says "up to 5.9."
Stoked for you Chris, I miss J T so much...