Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches
FA: Carlos Ariza
Page Views: 864 total · 10/month
Shared By: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra on Apr 12, 2017
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Ricardo Orozco

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Description Suggest change

Another classic moderate with a variety of climbing. All pitches are 5.9, and the first three are a must do!

P1. Start up the corner on the left side of the pillar. Squeeze your way up the tight chimney till the top of it. Belay from there or link to the 2nd pitch by clipping the anchors with a long runner.

P2. From the top of the pillar, step left and traverse a few feet till the base of a short headwall with a splitter hand crack. Climb that till you reach a big ledge with another set of anchors.

P3. Climb up the dihedral using different cracks on the right face for protection. Once it ends, continue up a handcrack till you get under a big boulder. A couple of face climbing moves to the left will get you on top of it and another set of anchors.

P4. To reach this pitch you must traverse left on the wide garden terrace till you reach the area above the anchors of Limites del Poder. The pitch starts at a small cave with a hand crack in its upper section. The last 35 feet are runout 5.8 face climbing and there is no fixed anchor at the end. You must set your own.

DESCENT: For the first 3 pitches, you can rappel with a 60m rope using the chains at each anchor. For the 4th pitch, it's better to walk left and scramble down a few feet to the top anchors of Xochipili and follow the descent instructions for that route.

Location Suggest change

See description for the sub-area.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack up to #4 Camalot (doubles on all sizes, except #4), nuts and a few long runners.

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