What should I be looking for in a multi-pitch trad climbing pack?

I have a Patagonia Linked, and it's really comfortable and durable. But I recently got a Tufa Mochilla, and it is more comfortable, slightly bigger, and it's replaced it. My wife likes how it rides slightly lower, and it doesn't get in the way when she looks up with a helmet on.

Patagonia ascensionist 35L with the internal frame removed. Bomber pack that holds a ton of stuff, carries weight well, and is durable. The new 2017 ascensionist sucks btw.

I have a Marmot Kompressor that I got on sale for like $30. It's very light and simple, and fits well in a bigger pack. I've had it for years, and it has plenty of signs of wear, but works well. It's carried my partner and my poop down from the Whitney/Russell zone, been to the Bugaboos, up multi-pitches in redrocks, and probably held some cans of beer into the odd concert or Psicobloc comp. Highly recommended.

Mike,

Thank you for the questions. That has helped me think through this. Any multi-pitch I do is going to only be no more than a single day, grade IV, and probably less in most cases. I believe the only situation where myself as the leader would need to wear a pack is multi-pitch with a long approach and walk off where we can't leave our big main packs at the base of the climb. And I would need to carry enough layers, water, and food. Any other situation I'd have the second wear the pack only. And your right, tying the rope over the top of the pack probably would not be super important, as whenever I've seconded with other partners we've always made a rope back pack over the top of small packs. This gives me food for thought. Thanks again.

Durability is usually very important, if it's not, just get a hiking pack, no need for a climbing specific pack. I find I quickly destroy packs on rock when I climb. The other feature I think is absolutely necessary is a handle on the top, just a loop of webbing is fine. I always clip the bag to the belay power point to facilitate fast access to food, clothing, water, spare gear, etc

If simple, cheap, and replaceable interests you, check out the REI Flash 22 for $50. I have used it on hundreds of pitches at this point and it has held up great. It can hold a layer + double rack + harness + shoes + food for the approach no problem. It even fits a 70 meter rope for rope soloing if your into that.

You might want to lead with a backpack in the cold. If I'm climbing a multipitch route in the cold, I'll bring a belay jacket. If it's just a shell I can tie it around my waist, but if it's a puffy it needs to go in a bag. I want to throw it on as soon as I'm done leading a pitch - I don't want to wait for my partner to second and get the bag up to me. If the wall is steep and clean and the route straight I don't mind hauling, but if it's ledgy or loose or there are roofs or traverses it's better just to wear a pack (this all assumes there are no offwidths or chimneys that would disqualify wearing a pack). You can switch from hauling the pack to wearing the pack as each pitch demands.

If you're going to clip approach shoes to your harness or bag, as that Trango bag encourages you to do with its dedicated plastic clips, be sure to inspect the clip-in point on your shoes. Some of those pull-tabs are really weak. I had a pair of Patagonia sneakers where the pull-tab blew out with a gentle tug.

To be honest, both models you are looking at have a lot of external doodads that seem a tad unnecessary. Streamlined packs are less likely to get snagged on the way up, whether worn on your back or hauled. I've had good luck with BD bullet packs in the past and it seems like they have kept the newest model clean and doodad-free. They're a tad smaller than the packs you are looking at, 16L, which will keep you lighter. Hope that helps. Good luck!

I have climbed a lot in the jet pack from mountain tools

https://www.mtntools.com/cat/mt/packs/02jet.html

strong enough to haul (i have too many chimneys with this tagged up on a sling), small enough to stash, well balanced. Not cheap, made in america.

Or the bullet from BD. uber light, small. Does not fit much (16L),  but on class IV or V, it works. 

It seems like packs are either 20 L or less or 30 L and more. I would really like 25 L for single day 3-4 pitch - anyone know of this size? 

Thanks for all of your responses. It was very much appreciated. I ended up going with the Petzl Bug. Durability seemed more important to me. 

You'll throw away any of the Metolius Haul packs before they wear out.

OR used to make an 18L that I love. I'm surprised they don't have it anymore. The Petzl bug looks good, but I think I'd hate the daisy chain on it. Seems like it would catch on stuff too often. The BD Bullet looks good, but I'm not sure how durable it is. To the guy above that thinks multi-pitch packs are dumb. I don't understand why you think a back is more dumb than clipping a water bottle and a pair of shoes to your harness. I use a small 18L pack all of the time. My partner and I usually share it. The 2nd climber wears the pack and we trade off. Get to a shady spot and pull out your water and snack and then get back to climbing. 

Mark Hudon wrote:

You'll throw away any of the Metolius Haul packs before they wear out.

Do you mean they're indestructible, or that you'd throw them away because they suck? Or both?

 I'm a total weenie, I don't like to climb encumbered with a water bottle, my shoes hanging from my waist, and a windbreaker wrapped around my harness. I'll gladly drag a pack. Max Jones and I essentially invented haul packs back in the 70s. 

 And really, come on guys, there's 1 million ways to skin this cat, and the best way to skin it for you, is the way you like.  It's not dumb or smart to drag a pack, it's not smart or dumb to carry it all on your waist, it's simply the way you like to do it. Don't add any more importance to it than that.

They certainly don't suck. For the size pack we are talking about here, and it's intended use, they are probably the best pack out there. They are not the most comfortable pack you'll ever own, but they will be the most indestructible pack you'll ever own.

Has anyone tried this is instead of a pack?

https://www.mammut.ch/US/en_US/B2C-Kategorie/Men/Multipitch-Chalk-Bag/p/2290-00880-0001-1

As far as bags go the Tufa climbing mochilla bag is nice. If you add a waist belt to it...might be pretty perfect. 

Parker Wrozek wrote:

As far as bags go the Tufa climbing mochilla bag is nice. If you add a waist belt to it...might be pretty perfect. 

Seriously, the nerve of these people. It's a travesty!

Twinboas wrote:

Patagonia ascensionist 35L with the internal frame removed. Bomber pack that holds a ton of stuff, carries weight well, and is durable. The new 2017 ascensionist sucks btw.

I've been looking at the new packs, but how do they suck in comparison to the older models?