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Inversion Virgins
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Mystery Spire
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Cracked Code T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Inversion Virgins T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mystery Spire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Mark Geikenjoyner, Derek Field (April 2017) |
| Page Views: | 1,093 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Derek Field on Apr 6, 2017 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Inversion Virgins climbs the east face of Mystery Spire and is most notable for the wild roof crack. A must-do for offwidth lovers. A must-not-do for pretty much everyone else.
Pitch 1: Start in the middle of the face, stemming a chossy tips crack through several little bulges. Jam a nice right-arching hand crack to the belay ledge. Many options for gear anchor in and below the limestone band. (5.10-, 90 feet)
Pitch 2: Hop over the limestone band, wiggle up the chimney, and negotiate the offwidth roof crack. This is a well-protected yet rather devious bombay hatch. Belay from two-bolt anchor just above roof. (5.11, 60 feet)
Options from here:
1. Rappel route with two 60m ropes.
2. Continue up to top of tower on left (4th class), walk across summit to gap between two southernmost towers, and jump across to tallest tower. Very fun! Protect the jump-across with cams in horizontals. Rappel Cracked Code (south face) with one rope. Tree anchor at top; two-bolt chain anchor midway.
3. Boulder up tower on right (5.8 R) and rappel the original Mystery Spire route (north face) with one rope. Tree anchor at top; three-bolt chain anchor midway.
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